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How to Shop Like a Local in Colmurano

Alessandro, Ivana, and Eleonora — Eleonora, Ivana, and Alessandro

We found the butcher in Colmurano by accident, having parked in front of his shop to use the ATM across the street. Viale de Amicis is the only road that bisects our village, so naturally it is where most of our shops are services are. But there was no “Macelleria” sign on the building. Indeed, there was no sign on the storefront at all. I just happened to see a small placard with opening hours, and peeking through the window, meat in a display case.

Ever since, we visit Alessandro, his mother Ivana, and his wife Eleonora for more than just meat. It’s amazing what they fit into their small store. One of our early favorite discoveries is a “rotolo,” a chicken breast with meatball stuffing, wrapped in guanciale, rolled up and tied. Their mortadella, porchetta, and turkey alla porchetta has fed us sandwich lunches countless times, and they sell delicious local breads too! We also have fun learning what things are in Italian. They make a wonderful “cannoli,” but rather than a sweet dessert from Sicily, this is a roll of prosciutto cotto with mozzarella stuffed with olives.

When we order meat, Alessandro always asks what we’re using it for, to make sure we get the right cut. Matt has been making a fantastic pork or chicken stir-fry and we told him it was like Chinese food, not knowing the Italian word for stir-fry. Their steaks for grilling are beyond delicious. I was never a big steak eater, but the meat here tastes better. I really appreciate their pre-formed meatballs and their pre-breaded cutlets. It makes kitchen preparation so much faster, especially for my Prosciutto and Fontina cutlets recipe.

Most of all, their homemade sausages have become a staple. Matt uses them to make American breakfast, and crumbled on pizza. I use them in an easy and delicious sausage and cream sauce with pasta, in risotto with sausage, in lentil soup, or on skewers with vegetables. We will have many more recipes for you that feature their local meats.

There still isn’t a “Macelleria” sign. Look for a cream building on the corner across from the bank. The door has beads in it and when you walk through those beads, Alessandro, Ivana, or Eleonora (or all three) will greet you with a smile, a “Ciao” and then “dimmi,” which means, tell me (what you would like). In addition to their extensive selection of meats, they also sell a wide variety of pantry goods, fresh and dried pastas, sauces, beer and wines, excellent local cheeses, and much more.

Frutta e Verdure — Fruit and Vegetable Store

Francesco and his mother Lorena run the fruit and vegetable store, and they also ask what we’re making with our produce. A tomato for a salad is different than one for a sauce. Of the 3 different types of Radicchio they had, one is better with grilled mortadella and balsamic. Their shop is just down the block on the other side of the street. A “Mercatino della Frutta” sign makes it easy to find. Everything is fresh, almost everything is local, and it’s always reasonably priced. In addition to fruits and vegetables they also sell home-made marinated olives with garlic and orange peel, and farm-fresh eggs. Often they have stuffed and/or breaded vegetables ready to cook.

Heading back up the street a half-block, Isabella’s Alimentari is on the same side of the street in a green building with a small sign and beads in the doorway. With an impressive selection of items packed in a small space, she’s also a good source for pantry staples, cheeses, and eggs. Matt gets his breakfast cookies here. She is super friendly and often has pre-made meals of lasagna, porchetta, or fish ready to re-heat.

Down the street below the city walls, I Sette Artigiani is our local bakery, famous throughout the region. They make the best baked goods and also sell pantry staples and local specialties. Their tarts and cookies are amazing. Really, everything is! They are also super friendly and welcoming and can suggest the perfect type of bread for whatever we’re looking for.

Further down the road is our favorite local winery, Saputi. For everyday drinking, we buy their 5 liter “Bag in Box.” Our favorite is the Rosso Piceno for red and Passerina for white, although they have a variety of wines available in the box. An organic winery, their award-winning bottled wines are impressive. They are famous for their Ribona, a white wine made from a local native grape that is very typical of this area. It’s the wine we selected to gift to our summer guests. It’s local, unique, delicious, and chilled in the refrigerator upon arrival. So when you run out, now you’ll know where to get more!

7 Perfect Summer Days in the Marche

At Casa Pace e Gioia we are lucky because there are so many things to do in our area, all year round. So we put together our version of an ideal summer week at Casa Pace e Gioia that introduces you to the Marche’s nearby hidden gems, and also gives you time to relax in the quiet countryside, without hurry. Because when returning home, no one wants to feel like they need to recover from their vacation. Presenting our 7 Perfect Summer Days in the Marche…

Day 1:

Arrive and relax with a glass of wine, wander the grounds and take in the views.

If it’s lunchtime, try Osteria San Nicola, il Santo Bevitore, or Alimentari Fioretti in the historic center of Tolentino, a 15 minute drive.

In the afternoon after the shops reopen, head to nearby Colmurano and pick up award-winning wines directly at the Saputi family’s cantina. They’ll treat you to a quick tasting if you’d like to try before you buy. Then head to the renowned bakery I Sette Artigiani, for breads and sweets. Up the main street through town you’ll find an excellent butcher, a small but well-stocked grocery store, and a large fruit and vegetable market with delicious olives.

There should be enough time for a swim or to relax in the hanging chairs before your Private Chef is ready to serve your Welcome Dinner! You’ll dine under the loggia with views of the sun setting over the valley and depending on the month, fireflies. Your private chef will prepare traditional local foods, paired with wine, and explain the provenance. They’ll also clean up everything, so no mess for you to deal with.

Marco Candi with Laura Dezi at a wine tasting

Day 2:

You’ll spend the day on a Wine and Food Tour with Marco’s Way.

Marco will pick you up at 9 AM for an unforgettable introduction to our local foods and wines. You’ll visit 2-3 small family owned wineries that use native grapes to make a stunning variety of exceptional wines. He will also take you to a local olive oil producer for a tour and tasting. You’ll lunch very well at a winery or a local typical restaurant. Marco is a native Marchigiano who has a wealth of history and information about the area which will further enrich your tour.

Once home, if you have any room, find a casual dinner nearby, like Il Muretto, Pizzeria Best Of, or L’Approdo.

First Century Frescoes in the Temple at Urbs Salvia

Day 3:

Tour the nearby First-century Roman ruins of Urbs Salvia with a guide to put it all into context for you. Preserved by a landslide, the ruins are now excavated and scattered among the 40 hectare archeological park, where they continue to unearth more discoveries. The upper part in Urbisaglia includes the aqueduct reservoir, within the city walls, which shows how the Romans engineered a safe water supply. Descending the hill, you’ll see the theater, the amphitheater, and the temple with first-century frescoes.

Also in Urbisaglia, La Rocca is a 12–15th century castle overlooking Piazza Garibaldi. It has amazing views of the countryside from its four towers. Enjoy a gelato, caffè, or an aperitivo at our favorite bar in the piazza that faces the church behind La Rocca.

Lunch in Urbisaglia under the loggia at Le Logge, a favorite restaurant of many. The Tombolini family is welcoming and Chef Andrea offers creative interpretations of traditional local dishes.

Enjoy the afternoon at home in the pool.

For dinner tonight you’re headed to Il Sigillo in the lovely medieval town of Camporotondo di Fiastrone. Il Sigillo is an intimate family owned restaurant with stone walls and a relaxing ambiance. Stefano, who runs the front of the house, has curated an excellent wine list and is an expert at pairing them with the delicious homemade dishes that his sister and mother make. Save room for Cinzia’s special desserts.

A walking path at the Abbadia di Fiastra Natural Reserve

Day 4:

Sleep in and get a good night’s rest after what might have been a late evening. Hang out in the pool, play bocce or ping pong.

At lunchtime, drive to the nearby Abbadia di Fiastra Natural Reserve. Eat on the patio at Ristorante da Rosa, and pick from many traditional local dishes and seasonal specials. Their homemade ravioli is particularly outstanding, and their homemade desserts are fabulous.

Walk off lunch along the walking trails throughout the park, including one designed without obstacles for the visually impaired and incorporates the senses of hearing, touch, and smell. Another trail traverses past a woodland area and is the last example of the historical forests that once covered Le Marche.

Visit the park’s namesake Abbey Church, founded in 1142 and one of the best-preserved Cistercian abbeys in Italy. The cloisters are particularly beautiful. The Farm Museum, the Archaeological Collection, and the Wine Museum provide a fascinating history to this unique area.

Dine in the historic city center in Tolentino at il Santo Bevitore, known for their creative seafood dishes and excellent wines to pair with them. If you haven’t already, stroll down the block to admire our notable clocktower and continue on to the nearby Basilica of San Nicola and its peaceful cloister.

Lame Rosse, Sibillini National Park — Lame Rosse

Day 5:

Today you’re driving to the Sibillini National Park to reach the trailhead of the hike to the Lame Rosse. The famous“Red Blades” are unusual and amazing rock pinnacles and towers caused by erosion and held together by clay and silts. In the mornings they glow red, but they are spectacular any time of the day. The 7 kilometer hike takes about 3 hours round trip and begins with a walk over the Fiastra Lake and the dam that created it.

When you’ve finished your hike, lunch at nearby Rifugio di Tribbio which has a peaceful position in the mountains and fantastic local dishes.

After lunch, drive up the narrow road to the ruins of the Malagotti castle and the church of San Paolo. From the summit, admire the panoramic view of the Fiastra Lake and wander among the ruins, scattered with wildflowers and frequented by birds.

Take a scenic route back and head towards Bolognola, Sassotetto, and Sarnano to experience more of the park. You may encounter sheep in the road and see cows grazing in the fields. Wild orchids, other wildflowers, and flowering trees often line the roadway.

The medieval fortified town of Sarnano is named one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy. Park in the piazza and walk through the gate to wander the concentric circles of this attractive brick town.

From Sarnano, it’s an easy drive on SP78 to return home.

After a long day hiking, for dinner, take it easy and have a pizza night. Il Muretto in Colmurano is only 5 minutes away and has excellent pizzas. They also have take out if you prefer to eat at home.

Beach on the Conero Coast. Photo courtesy of Turismo Marche

Day 6:

After hiking the mountains, relax at the beach!

The closest beach is 30 minutes away at Civitanova Marche where both the North and South beaches have Blue Flag status for cleanliness and quality. Select one of our recommended beach chalets and rent chaise loungers and umbrellas for the day, several chalets also have beach sports and kids activities.

Alternatively, the Mount Conero coast beaches south of Ancona are just an hour away. Under tall cliffs dotted with villages, these suggestive beaches boast a beautiful panorama. Stand up paddling, canoe rentals, windsurfing, and kitesurfing are offered. You can also rent an inflatable boat and see the famous “Due Sorelle” rock formation and spend your day on a beach accessible only by boat.

No matter what area you choose, have lunch on the beach barefoot or at a nearby waterfront restaurant where you’re certain to find fresh Adriatic seafood on the menu.

If you make it back to the house in time for dinner, I suggest Terra Nostra, in nearby San Ginesio, where you can eat inspired local dishes outside with a view of the mountains and the setting sun.

Day 7:

It’s your last day. So you’re enjoying it fully, at home in the pool, playing lawn games or ping pong. If you don’t have leftovers for lunch, head to Norcineria. It’s very close by, casual, they have outdoor dining, a playground for kids, and delicious antipasti, pastas, sandwiches, meat dishes and more.

For your last dinner, if you have not yet been, definitely try Ristorante Pizzeria L’Antico Approdo. It’s one of our favorites. It’s also nearby, casual, family-friendly, with indoor and outdoor seating, and a broad menu that give you a chance to try your favorite Marchigiano dish one last time.

Day 8:

Checkout isn’t until 11 o’clock and we sometimes have complimentary late check outs available, just ask! Have some breakfast and pack calmly. There’s time for a morning coffee (and/or Prosecco) from the hanging chairs and one last swim before you leave.

Reserve your perfect week here.

Contact me and I’ll create a custom itinerary for you.

A 14 day itinerary is coming soon!

Ten Things to do in the Marche if it Rains

Summers are usually sunny in the Marche but if the forecast calls for rain, here are some ideas to enjoy your vacation at Casa Pace e Gioia regardless of the weather.

1. Go underground at the Frasassi Caves!

It’s just over an hour’s drive from Casa Pace e Gioia, and I always recommend that our guests explore the largest cave system in Europe, even when the weather is beautiful. The largest room in the 30-kilometer complex, the Ancona Abyss, could hold Milan’s massive Cathedral. Guides lead visitors on a 1500-meter walkway that take you past shimmering crystals, an underground lake, spires, pinnacles, rock formations, stalactites, and stalagmites. Pre-registration is required, and tours are offered in a variety of languages. Bring a sweater as the caves are kept at 14°C (57°F) year-round.

While you’re there, see the nearby Temple of Valadier, an octagonal church that is built inside of a cave and is a favorite Instagram post.

Poltrona Frau Museum, Ten Things to do in the Marche if it rains. — Poltrona Frau Museum

2. Visit Tolentino’s museums and monuments.

Only 15 minutes away from Casa Pace e Gioia, in Tolentino you can visit our local landmark, the Basilica di San Nicola, a 13^th-15^th century church famous for housing the remains of St. Nicholas, who was a hermit and preacher to whom many miracles were attributed. People from all over the world pilgrimage here in veneration. The complex is still under restoration from the earthquakes of 2016 but most of it has reopened. The lovely Cappellone di San Nicola is beautifully frescoed and the cloister is peaceful and suggestive.

Just two blocks away from the Basilica, and facing our famous clocktower and the Piazza della Libertà is the MIUMOR, the International Museum of Humor in Art. The Museum hosts a notable International Biennale in odd-numbered years but displays artworks including caricatures, cartoons, and sculptures year-round. Locals always recommend a visit and it gets great reviews. It’s a quirky and fun way to spend some time indoors.

In the same piazza, the bar Pasticceria Zazzaretta has outdoor seating under a loggia if you want to stop for a snack or coffee. For lunch options, I suggest il Santo Bevitore, just down from the clocktower, or Osteria San Nicola, a few blocks away at via Flaminia, 6.

Three kilometers east of Tolentino’s historical center and just off via Nazionale, the Poltrona Frau Museum is a 1400 square meter space devoted to recounting the history and achievement of the legendary furniture-making firm founded in 1912. You can get a glimpse of how their handcrafted furniture is made through exhibits and videos and see their leather in a Ferrari. The outlet store to the left ships internationally and has unbeatable prices.

Four kilometers east of the Poltrona Frau museum is the well-preserved 14th century Castello della Rancia, a former castle that now houses an archeological museum and often hosts special exhibitions. The view from the tower is fantastic on a clear day, but the rest of the castle is still worth a tour in the rain.

The abbey church at Fiastra, Ten Things to do in the Marche if it rains. — Entrance to the church at the Abbadia di Fiastra

3. See the church and museum at the Abbadia di Fiastra

The nature reserve at the Abbadia di Fiastra is splendid in fine weather but if it rains, take the opportunity to visit one the 12^th century Abbey Church, one of the best-preserved Cistercian abbeys in Italy, with its frescoes and rose window. Tour the adjoining monastery’s cloisters, chapter house, refectory, Cellarium, wine museum, gardens, and the olive oil storeroom that now houses archeological finds from the ruins of Urbs Salvia. Also in the park is the 18^th century Palazzo Giustiniani Bandini, owned by the last heir of the property which is now managed by his foundation.

Several terrific restaurants and bars in the park are open for lunch or a refreshment.

Marchecraft, Ten things to do in the Marche if it rains. — Grazie to Marchecraft for the photo

4. Meet a local artisan and make your own souvenir

The Marche region has a long heritage of high-quality craftsmanship. Marchecraft recognizes this and has sought out talented artisans to share their techniques with visitors. And in many cases, you’ll get to take home your own Made in Italy souvenir. You can make your own sandals, pottery, paper, jewelry, traditional tambourine, and more! Several experiences are suitable for children. The duration of the experiences vary by type and they are located throughout the region.

5. Head to Macerata

The sun always seems to shine on Macerata, even when it’s storming here. So you might get lucky and it won’t be raining there, but even if it is, some of Macerata’s best sites are indoors. Macerata is a 30 minute drive and I suggest parking at the Parcheggio Centro Storico, which is covered and has an art-filled tunnel and an elevator to reach the city center.

The Sferisterio, a gorgeous, elliptically shaped arena, is a must see, although part of it is outdoors. It opened in 1829 after 100 private citizens raised the funds to design and build a venue large enough to play the Roman ball game pallone al bracciale, and to hold circuses and bullfights.

Twentieth century Italian art is displayed in a 17^th century palace with period furnishings, in a unique and intimate setting at the Galleria d’Arte Contemporanea housed in the Palazzo Ricci.

The Palazzo Buonaccorsi has three museums. The notable Carriage Museum in the basement displays a variety of vehicles throughout history. In frescoed rooms on the first floor the Pinacoteca displays 14^th-18^th century art, among them a Carlo Crivelli. And on the second floor, the Galleria d’Arte Moderna has works by 19^th century Italian artists.

The Basilica della Misericordia is the world’s smallest basilica and a national monument. The interior, with ceiling frescoes, paintings, and gilded accents is gorgeous and peaceful.

For lunch or dinner in Macerata I suggest Osteria dei Fiori. The Carducci family serves typical Maceratese cuisine in an elevated style, with excellent local wines. Covered outdoor seating is available and their spacious interior is inviting.

Chefaway pasta demonstration, Ten Things to do in the Marche if it rains — Chefaway demonstration at Casa Pace e Gioia

6. Stay at home and have Chefaway come for an in-house food demonstration.

Our friend Andrea at Chefaway has put together memorable experiences that introduce you to local food traditions and techniques. They offer pizza making, cheese making, pasta making, and gelato making experiences; hands-on cooking classes, and a local dinner experience. Create your own combination or just enjoy one. They can do all of the demonstrations in the house and the loggia and it would definitely entertain children.

7. Taste local wines!

Most of our local winemakers are available on a short notice to visit. It’s often raining when we visit Saputi down the road during our spring and fall visits. Giovanni at Fattoria Colmone della Marca has a huge tasting room with expansive views. Terre di Serrapetrona also has a lovely vista that you can admire from indoors. Sandro at Podere sul Lago has a gorgeous barrel storage room and is happy to give you a tour of his cantina and tasting room. For something special and very local, visit Cantina Il Lorese to try “cooked” Vino Cotto. Their underground cellar is very suggestive. I can assist with reservations.

8. Visit Ancona

The region’s capital is about an hour’s drive and perhaps it won’t be raining there? Founded and settled by Greek mariners in the 8th century BC, Ancona thrived as a trading port city. The Romans came and further elevated the city’s status. For five centuries, Ancona was a powerful independent Maritime Republic until 1532 when it came under papal control until the French invaded in 1797. This rich history has given the city a unique mix of architectural styles and sights to see.

Trajan’s Arch, a famous landmark, is outdoors but many other sites are indoors.

The Museo Tattile Statale Omero is a museum for the blind and a good choice for those with children. Upon entering, you are offered a blindfold and encouraged to touch the many sculptures that are replicas of famous artworks. (They have strong Covid-19 prevention protocol in place and encourage advance booking.)

The 11^th-13^th century Duomo di San Ciriaco overlooks the city, shimmering in white stone. It requires an uphill climb, but the views of the city are superb, and the architecture is notable. Some of the floor is glass, allowing you to see the pagan ruins on which the church was built.

Set in a 16^th century palazzo with beautiful ceilings, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche displays archeological finds from the region from Prehistoric times until the Middle Ages, with artifacts from the cultures that have made their imprint on the Marche such as the Picene civilization, the Celts, and the Romans.

The lovely Chiesa Santa Maria di Piazza has a gorgeously carved exterior and a priceless 16^thcentury crucifix. Mosaics from earlier churches from the 5^th and 6^th century are visible in the crypt.

Chefs Andrea Tombolini and mother Natalina

9. Take a cooking class

We have several cooking class options. One recommendation is to learn how to make typical dishes from a highly regarded chef, Andrea Tombolini at Locanda le Logge, in nearby Urbisaglia, one of our recommended restaurants. He can come to the house, but I’d suggest the short drive to cook in the restaurant’s kitchen. I can also arrange a class just down the road with our housekeeper Claudia.

10. “Made in Italy” Outlet Shopping

A lot of what is “Made in Italy” is made in the Marche. Well-known brands and private-label producers alike offer discounts at their outlets. Leather bags, accessories, shoes, ceramics, and clothing are among the most popular items. A Google Map of our recommendations is here.

Book your Marche vacation at Casa Pace e Gioia here.