We found the butcher in Colmurano by accident, having parked in front of his shop to use the ATM across the street. Viale de Amicis is the only road that bisects our village, so naturally it is where most of our shops are services are. But there was no “Macelleria” sign on the building. Indeed, there was no sign on the storefront at all. I just happened to see a small placard with opening hours, and peeking through the window, meat in a display case.
Ever since, we visit Alessandro, his mother Ivana, and his wife Eleonora for more than just meat. It’s amazing what they fit into their small store. One of our early favorite discoveries is a “rotolo,” a chicken breast with meatball stuffing, wrapped in guanciale, rolled up and tied. Their mortadella, porchetta, and turkey alla porchetta has fed us sandwich lunches countless times, and they sell delicious local breads too! We also have fun learning what things are in Italian. They make a wonderful “cannoli,” but rather than a sweet dessert from Sicily, this is a roll of prosciutto cotto with mozzarella stuffed with olives.
When we order meat, Alessandro always asks what we’re using it for, to make sure we get the right cut. Matt has been making a fantastic pork or chicken stir-fry and we told him it was like Chinese food, not knowing the Italian word for stir-fry. Their steaks for grilling are beyond delicious. I was never a big steak eater, but the meat here tastes better. I really appreciate their pre-formed meatballs and their pre-breaded cutlets. It makes kitchen preparation so much faster, especially for my Prosciutto and Fontina cutlets recipe.
Most of all, their homemade sausages have become a staple. Matt uses them to make American breakfast, and crumbled on pizza. I use them in an easy and delicious sausage and cream sauce with pasta, in risotto with sausage, in lentil soup, or on skewers with vegetables. We will have many more recipes for you that feature their local meats.
There still isn’t a “Macelleria” sign. Look for a cream building on the corner across from the bank. The door has beads in it and when you walk through those beads, Alessandro, Ivana, or Eleonora (or all three) will greet you with a smile, a “Ciao” and then “dimmi,” which means, tell me (what you would like). In addition to their extensive selection of meats, they also sell a wide variety of pantry goods, fresh and dried pastas, sauces, beer and wines, excellent local cheeses, and much more.
Francesco and his mother Lorena run the fruit and vegetable store, and they also ask what we’re making with our produce. A tomato for a salad is different than one for a sauce. Of the 3 different types of Radicchio they had, one is better with grilled mortadella and balsamic. Their shop is just down the block on the other side of the street. A “Mercatino della Frutta” sign makes it easy to find. Everything is fresh, almost everything is local, and it’s always reasonably priced. In addition to fruits and vegetables they also sell home-made marinated olives with garlic and orange peel, and farm-fresh eggs. Often they have stuffed and/or breaded vegetables ready to cook.
Heading back up the street a half-block, Isabella’s Alimentari is on the same side of the street in a green building with a small sign and beads in the doorway. With an impressive selection of items packed in a small space, she’s also a good source for pantry staples, cheeses, and eggs. Matt gets his breakfast cookies here. She is super friendly and often has pre-made meals of lasagna, porchetta, or fish ready to re-heat.
Down the street below the city walls, I Sette Artigiani is our local bakery, famous throughout the region. They make the best baked goods and also sell pantry staples and local specialties. Their tarts and cookies are amazing. Really, everything is! They are also super friendly and welcoming and can suggest the perfect type of bread for whatever we’re looking for.
Further down the road is our favorite local winery, Saputi. For everyday drinking, we buy their 5 liter “Bag in Box.” Our favorite is the Rosso Piceno for red and Passerina for white, although they have a variety of wines available in the box. An organic winery, their award-winning bottled wines are impressive. They are famous for their Ribona, a white wine made from a local native grape that is very typical of this area. It’s the wine we selected to gift to our summer guests. It’s local, unique, delicious, and chilled in the refrigerator upon arrival. So when you run out, now you’ll know where to get more!
I was at a laundromat in Mantova watching my clothes tumble dry when a car going backwards down the street caught my eye. The driver approached an improbably small parking space on the left side of the street. Traffic behind him came to a standstill. As the driver backed in, his rear bumper hit the car behind him. He did not appear concerned, repeated the maneuver, then pulled ahead, hitting the car in front.
The driver got out and nonchalantly walked down the sidewalk. Traffic moved again. ‘So that’s how you parallel park,’ I thought, ‘just hit the cars in front and behind yours.’
The day prior, I had tried and failed to parallel park and drove well past my destination to park in a spot I could pull into.
Despite my inability to parallel park, I’ve driven, and parked, all-around Italy, from tiny Sicilian villages to rush hour in Milan. If I can park in Italy, surely you can too. If you can parallel park, you’re a big step ahead. And if you’re like me, I have hints to help you avoid it.
Parking in Italy is pretty straight-forward once you understand the signs and symbols. Parking spots are marked in lots or along the streets. Blue lines mean you have to pay, white lines are free, and yellow ones are reserved for residents, deliveries, or otherwise off-limits to the average tourist. Parking areas are denoted with a blue sign and a white P.
To understand no parking signs, remember that parking is blue, and things you can’t do are red. No parking is denoted with a blue circle with a red frame and a red backslash though it. Signs are posted on the side that forbids parking. You may also see the words “passo carrabile” on garage doors that seem like a great parking spot until you notice it’s a driveway. No stopping signs add another line to make a big red X over the blue circle. If a street does not have a no-parking sign, you can most likely park along it, as long as you keep the driveways clear.
To pay for blue-lined parking spaces, find the small machine nearby. Often the directions are in English. The price per minute will be posted. Insert euros in coins, bills, and increasingly, a credit card, or payment app. The machine will then print out a small slip which you put on your dashboard with the date and time displayed. I have seen the police check, so it’s worth the small amount to comply.
White lines represent free parking, although it may be time-limited. If you see a parking sign with a blue rectangle and what looks like a white smiley-face, you’ll need to set your disco orario. The sign indicates the duration of your free parking – 30 minuti and un’ora are the most common. Your rental car should have a disco orario, either in a small pouch stuck to the windshield or on the dashboard. If your car does not have one, you can buy one inexpensively at a tobaccaio which is a small store displayed by a “T”, or a gas station. Set the spin-dial on the disco orario to show the time you arrived. And no cheating – the police may check.
If you see a sign with crossed hammers it means the parking limit posted only applies Mondays through Saturdays. In other words, on Sundays or holidays, the posted restrictions are not enforced.
Typically, it is harder to find and more expensive to pay for parking in larger cities and as you near any town’s centro storico. Walled cities and small villages often have large lots outside the perimeter for campers and oversized vehicles. If you can walk distances, this is a great way to pull into a space without parallel parking and to avoid driving in cramped areas. If there is a fee, it usually costs less than within the town. On market days or holidays, it can be a huge time saver as well.
Most parking lots are unattended and require prepayment at entry, or you’ll take a ticket upon entrance and pay upon exit after inserting your ticket.
The smaller the town, the more likely you are to find free parking. It’s not uncommon to see parked cars facing both directions, but often parking is limited to one side of the street only.
If you are staying in a hotel, B&B, or Airbnb, ask your host about parking. Some can get you a pass or register your car with the local authorities so you can access a limited traffic zone (ZTL) and park. Especially in large cities, the nearest parking lot outside the ZTL is a long distance away. Some urban hotels have their own lots—if you can get in and out while avoiding the ZTL, but expect to pay. One hotel we like in Rome charges €70 per day to park.
You may want to upgrade your rental car to one with distance sensors and a backup camera. Once you’re parked, fold in your side mirrors. I was excited when attending a large festival to find a great parking spot in a large empty lot. By the time we left, the lot was packed with cars. I thought we would be stuck there. Even with sensors, it took a friend and a police officer to direct me out of the tight squeeze.
The phrase “Dove posso parcheggiare?” may come in handy. It’s pronounced doe-vay poe-so park-eh-jar-eh. It means where can I park? I’ve always been given good guidance by passersby when I’ve asked. Once, after struggling to translate a sign in front of a parking lot, a local gentleman came over to explain it was free. My confusion stemmed from the lack of any lines whatsoever in a giant lot just across the street from a Mediterranean beach in Sicily.
In a tiny medieval village in Sicily I found a free overnight parking spot on the left with nothing in front of it. Thrilled, I backed into it no problem. But, never having successfully parked on the left, when I opened the door, it whacked the curb. I put three scratches on a brand-new black rental car. Thankfully I always travel with a Sharpie marker. If you do end up parking on the left side of the road, take care when opening your door, and consider packing a marker.
Italy’s most popular tourist destinations are easily reached by plane, train, or cruise ship. But to see Italy’s hidden treasures, to travel like a local, to experience first-hand Italy’s dolce vita, rent a car and drive to smaller cities and tiny villages.
Driving in Italy is a sport. Italians drive fast, except when they drive slow. They tailgate, then slam on the brakes at a “zebra crossing.” They use both hands to speak while driving, and they drive in-between designated lanes, as if to create additional ones.
And yet, my trips to Italy were more immersive and enchanting once I got behind the wheel. It will for you too. Here is everything you need to know to drive in Italy.
Before you Drive
You’ve taken pictures of your rental car and are ready to leave the lot. Before you do, turn on your headlights. Low-beam and parking lights are required at all times in suburban areas and the motorways.
Buckle your seatbelts, even passengers in the back seat — it’s the law. Children under the age of four must be in an approved safety seat and children aged four to 12 are required to use a booster seat until they reach 1.5 meters tall (about 4.9 feet). Your car rental company can provide both.
Program your destination into Waze, or a similar GPS system that displays the speed limit, and alerts you when you’re exceeding it. Speed limits change often, even on the same road, and are not always marked. If you’re American, you may want to change your GPS settings to metric so they match the road signs.
Mobile phone use is allowed only in “hands-free” mode.
Leave your International Driving Permit in the vehicle. It won’t do you any good in your luggage in your hotel room. You also need your driver’s license.
As a general rule, the speed limit on major freeways, (Autostrada, some Strada Statale) is 130 km/h (80 mph), reduced to 110 km/h (68 mph) in rain or bad weather. On divided highways in suburban areas (Strada Statale), the limit is 110, or 90 (56 mph) in inclement weather. On secondary and local roads (Strada Provinciale) the speed limit is 90 km/h, reduced to 80 km/h (50 mph) when raining. In cities it is 50 km/h (31 mph) regardless of weather.
Speed limits are enforced by a vast network of cameras, which are marked but easy to miss, especially when you don’t speak the language, you’re trying not to get lost, and you’ve got one eye on your rearview mirror. Waze is good at warning when you approach a camera, but be advised some locations change weekly.
To add to the confusion, two different systems monitor speed. One is clearly marked “controllo elettronico della velocità con sistema tutor.” Usually on the Autostrade (plural for Autostrada), the Tutor system uses two cameras at fixed points to establish an average speed. If your average speed is over the limit, expect a ticket to arrive by mail. The second method, signaled by “controllo elettronico della velocità” is simply a camera with a radar, either in a box along the road or hand-held by a police officer.
As with the Tutor system, don’t expect to be pulled over and fined for speeding. You’ll get a ticket in the mail. If you really want to prepare, the Polizia di Stato website publishes camera locations, updated weekly. (In Italian, but you can use Chrome or an extension to easily translate.) Many small towns also have speed cameras that should be designated, but even at a slower speed, they are easily overlooked.
As stated on my speeding ticket, drivers are given a 5% tolerance over the posted limit, with a minimum of 5 kmh for a speed limit of 100 kmh or less. Anything above that speed is subject to fees that start at € 41 and can reach € 336. Fines increase incrementally with higher speed violations, and if it occurs in the evening, a surcharge is added.
Your first indication that you have a ticket is if a charge appears on the credit card that you used to pay for your rental car. You might even receive an email from the car rental agency advising you that you have received a ticket and they have charged you an administrative fee to provide your information to the local authorities.
The ticket itself may take months to arrive. The police have 360 days to notify you. My ticket arrived by registered mail almost 4 months later. My fine, for driving 4 kmh over the threshold in a 70 kph zone, was € 44.60 including “notification and procedure costs” if paid within 5 days of the receipt of the notification, which they know because they sent it certified mail. Hertz also charged me € 25 for the aforementioned administrative fee, lower than the € 50 that Europcar charged me for a “ZTL” infraction.
My ticket arrived the same day as my husband’s, although his was from a different region and 4 months before mine. Both were in English and provided websites to view our crimes captured on camera. They offered methods to appeal but none were convenient for a guilty foreigner. The only way to pay was by international wire transfer, for which many American banks charge exorbitantly.
I don’t know what happens if you don’t pay. Our tickets stated that after 60 days, “relevant tax authorities will be entitled to recover the half of the maximum amount of the violation” — more than double the fine. We drive often in Italy, so for us non-payment was never a question.
Italian Driving Quirks
Especially when driving on the Autostrada, you might think speed limits are not enforced in Italy, or that the drivers flying past you have some sort of immunity. Whether on the 8-lane Autostrada or a 2-lane country road, you’ll look in the rearview mirror that you just peeked at 3 seconds ago and suddenly a car has appeared out of nowhere, the driver is tailgating you, flashing their headlights, and gesticulating wildly. What we consider criminal tailgating is Italian habit. Don’t take it personally.
Stay in the middle or right lane on the freeways. Use the left-most lane only to pass and be quick about it. Signal your intent, but don’t expect other drivers to do so. Constantly check your mirrors, especially when changing lanes. Don’t try to understand why some drivers leave their turn signals on. I’ve asked several Italians and they don’t know either. If the driver behind you on a freeway flashes their lights, move to the right. Signs above the Autostrada display blue circles and speed limits by lane. Those are the minimum speeds you can drive in each lane.
Lane dividing lines are painted but don’t be surprised to see cars straddle them and drive in-between lanes, especially the left and middle ones.
Entrance and exit ramps are shorter on Italian highways so accelerate quickly to merge with traffic. Italians are fairly polite about moving over to accommodate incoming cars. The next exit is painted on the pavement in the right lane in addition to roadside signs.
Emergency stop areas are marked and often include a telephone. In the event of a breakdown or problem, wear the fluorescent safety vest usually found in the trunk of your rental car and place the warning triangle 50 meters from your car. In the unlikely event that you cannot reach your car rental agency, roadside assistance is available from the Automobile Club of Italy 24/7 by calling 800.116.800 from a foreign mobile phone.
Autogrill is the most common rest stop in Italy. I’ve had a light lunch in a couple of them and have left thinking that I could have eaten better for less money elsewhere. If you’re hungry and it’s lunch or dinner hours, exit the freeway, consult Google Maps, and find a local restaurant nearby. We stumbled upon a family owned bar and restaurant on the road from Rome to our house in the Marche. They source their own meats and breads locally and our lunch there was less expensive than Autogrill.
If it’s outside serving hours, Autogrill’s sandwiches are not bad. Ask them to heat it for you (caldo means warm). I’ve never had their cafeteria-style hot food. If you see several police cars or a lot of semi trucks parked at a rest stop, that’s a good sign. They know where to find a good meal on the go.
Drinking and Driving
Italy’s blood alcohol limit is 0.5 gr/l, or 0.05%, lower than many states in the U.S. If you are found above that, the penalties are severe. You can be fined € 527 to € 6,000, banned for driving, prosecuted, and imprisoned up to one year. Police routinely perform random security and sobriety checks. And not always at night. My husband Matt was driving from a wine tasting on a weekend afternoon when a police officer stepped into the road holding a stop sign. He approached our car and asked to see his license. Matt handed it to him, along with his International Driving Permit, which I think was the first one the police officer had ever seen by the curiosity with which he regarded it. The officer shook his head at his boss sitting in the car and waved us on. Thankfully, Matt had not been drinking, but don’t assume you won’t get stopped in broad daylight.
Most autostrade have tolls. At the first stop, you’ll get your ticket (biglietto). Do not pick the Telepass lane. As you exit the autostrada, you’ll have to pay. Again, do NOT take the Telepass lane. Pick a lane that shows a credit card symbol to pay by credit card (American cards accepted), or the money symbol to pay in cash. Insert your ticket, the machine will tell you what you owe, and gives change. If an agent is available, the sign will display a hand giving change. You can estimate the tolls for your route on the Autostrada website.
I found roundabouts pretty fun once I got the hang of them and it’s an easy way to turn around when I get lost. In a one-lane roundabout, you enter to the right when it’s clear and signal only when you get to your exit. In a multiple-lane roundabout, if you’re taking the first exit, you must use the right lane to enter and signal right. If you’re going straight, use the right lane to enter, and signal only when you approaching your exit. If you need to go left, enter the roundabout from the left lane and signal left, then move to the right lane, and signal right. That sounds more complicated than it is, and it becomes intuitive.
On two-lane country roads you might get stuck behind a tractor or a slow driver. You can pass on the left if it is not a “no passing zone” indicated by solid double white lines, and/or with a sign that has a red car to the left of a black one. That being said, ensure you check for oncoming traffic with the understanding that an approaching car can appear seemingly out of nowhere. Likewise, if a driver wants to pass you, move to the right a bit. I recommend familiarizing yourself with Italian road signs before you get there and bringing a printed version for quick reference.
Strade Bianche – White Roads
Are so called because they are typically white gravel. They might be paved or dirt, but in all cases, they are narrow. Commonly found in the idyllic countryside, these roads are not heavily trafficked or maintained. If you meet another car, the one going up a hill has priority. You may have to reverse to find space to allow them through. Take your time, relax, tranquillo. Italians driving in the countryside are generally very accommodating.
“Zona Traffico Limitato” The Dreaded ZTL
More than forty Italian cities have restricted traffic zones (ZTL), usually around the “centro storico” city center. In ZTLs vehicular traffic is restricted to residents, or authorized at certain times of the day, or a congestion charge is required to access. Research the areas where you plan to drive in advance and in Rome, look for signs that say “Varco Attivo” meaning the ZTL is active and you cannot enter. “Varco non Attivo” means you can drive freely. A sign that says “Zona Traffico Limitato” with a white circle and a red border is another sign not to cross, unless the hours posted below it indicate otherwise. In Milan’s center is an “Area C” for which you can buy a pass online and activate upon your arrival in Milan. In some smaller towns, your host or hotel may be able to register your car with the police to allow admittance.
As with speeding, ZTLs are enforced by a surprisingly efficient camera system, and if you violate one, you will be fined both by the authorities and the rental car agency.
Stop signs are red and say stop, so that’s easy. If you see a red circle with a white horizontal rectangle it means wrong way, do not enter. A narrow, white arrow on blue indicates one-way traffic, is often faded, and shockingly small. You may see the words “senso unico” which mean one way. A quick hint to determine if you are about to go the wrong way down a one-way is to look for parking signs on the street. If you can’t see any, you may be making a mistake.
I’ll cover parking signs in the next article of this series but “no parking” is represented by a red-framed blue circle with a red line through it. Just remember, parking signs are blue and things you can’t do are red.
You’ll see “Varco Aperto” on signs on the highways. It just means there’s a short stretch of road ahead where the center divider is missing.
Galleria means a tunnel, and they are marked with an odd sign that is clearly intended to represent a tunnel but when flying past it at 130 kmh, it doesn’t look like anything.
Crosswalks and other town hazards
At zebra crossings, or crosswalks with black and white striped lines, you are legally required to stop to allow a pedestrian to cross, usually screeching to a halt to do so. As a pedestrian though, do not assume the driver is paying attention and cross only when you know it’s safe.
There is no right turn on red in Italy. A red light means you can’t go anywhere.
An Italian would want to avoid traffic and drive their car in the bus lane but it’s a fineable offense. Thankfully, when I accidentally drove in the bus lane the only witnesses were curious bystanders.
In villages with narrow lanes, you may want to fold in your side mirrors when negotiating tight spaces.
Don’t blindly obey your GPS instructions. The app does not know it’s market day and the road is closed. If, like me, you find yourself driving through a crowded market in Sicily, smile and shrug in a rueful apology. You won’t be the first.
Diesel cars are common in Italy. Double check your rental’s fuel type before filling it with gas. “Benzina senza piombo” is unleaded gasoline and diesel or “gasolio” is diesel. Getting gas in Italy can be an adventure, and one you’ll pay a lot for. We recently paid € 1.73 per liter for diesel, or about € 6.65 per gallon.
Especially in rural areas, it may be hard to find a gas station open 24/7 and some close for lunch. Many gas stations offer full service, so if your rental car lacks washer fluid (it happens often to me) and you need your windows washed, pick full service. They sometimes give you a free coffee too.
To pump your own gas, look for “Fai da te” which means do it yourself. You may have to pre-pay at an outdoor kiosk by entering your pump number and credit card or cash. Some gas stations let you pay inside the store afterwards, or to an attendant outside with a credit card reader, or my favorite, a drive-through booth with an attendant. Some gas stations even have disposable gloves you can use. In large cities, micro gas stations are tucked along the streets.
The Cinque Terre and Amalfi Coast
I have been to both but have never driven them. In the Cinque Terre, the villages do not allow cars, so you pay to park outside the town, then walk (typically uphill). The narrow roads are hairpins and may induce carsickness. A train connects the villages from the La Spezia station, I recommend that or the ferryboats instead.
The Amalfi Coast is breathtakingly beautiful and the driver will miss it all because their eyes will be on the road. The passengers may get carsick, and if you drive there in the summer, you’ll spend a lot of vacation time in horrendous traffic and looking for a parking spot. The roads are narrow for two-way traffic and overridden with tour buses you can’t see coming around the curve. Unless you’re driving in the off-season, I recommend taking the public bus, hiring a driver for a day trip, or better yet, ride a ferryboat.
An Italian friend of mine thought his wife had not understood my Italian when she told him that I had driven in Sicilia. He later asked me, wide-eyed with incredulity, if the rumor was true.
Even some mainland Italians confess a fear of driving in Sicily. But if I can do it, so can you. That being said, do not drive in Palermo or Catania. Many Sicilians have cautioned me against doing so, and I heed local advice.
The rest of Sicily is drivable, with caveats. In my experience, GPS is not as accurate, so expect to get lost. In some areas, the roads are potholed, missing shoulders, and without dividing lines. A Sicilian driver behind me blared his horn when I dared to stop at a stop sign. Another driver honked his displeasure when, at the end of a road, I stopped to look, then waited for oncoming cars to clear before I proceeded. During a morning traffic jam in Trapani, we all drove around two stopped cars while the drivers conversed in the busy intersection.
Sicily is one of my favorite places in the world. Sicilians are warm-hearted, and if you get lost they will help you.
In my next articles I’ll cover everything you need to know to park in Italy.
If you think I’ve missed something or if you have any questions please leave a comment.