Heather is the host of Casa Pace e Gioia, a holiday rental home with a private pool and olive groves on 8 acres in the countryside hills of Le Marche, Italy.
Our CIN is: IT043053B4BLWUZXVO
Our unusual June heatwave is not as bad as for those in France and England, but it’s still hot. Casa Pace e Gioia has a private pool and all the bedrooms are air conditioned, but if you want to leave, here are our 10 Ways to Beat the Heat in the Marche.
In the Frasassi Caves. Photo by Heather von Bargen
The Frasassi Caves are the largest cave system in Europe and one of the largest in the world. And the best part during a heat wave is that they are 14 degrees celsius (57 F) year round! The caves offer 75 minute tours in a variety of languages on accessible paths and it is truly a fascinating experience. You can buy tickets online or on-site and the parking lot has shaded food stands and markets.
Book a Wine Tasting
Wine is stored in climate-controlled cantinas and the wineries usually have air conditioning. So a great way to cool down is with a nice glass of local wine! We can help arrange it with our favorite winemakers.
Photo by Heather von Bargen
Head to the Beach
We are only 30 minutes from the Adriatic beaches where you can rent or bring an umbrella for shade and enjoy the water. Some chalets also offer cabanas for rent.
Go to the Mountains
The Sibillini mountains are always cooler in the summer. Head toward Bolognola for higher elevation, hikes for every experience level, restaurants, and a lovely beech forest where you can also find shade.
Fiastra Lake. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Swim in Fiastra Lake
As an alternative to the beach, go to Fiastra Lake where you can swim with a view of the mountains at a higher altitude. Local food stands or the Rifugio di Tribbio have excellent meals.
Find some Shade
Whether you want to hike or picnic, there are several local places that offer relaxing shade and cooling breezes. The wooded part of the Abbadia di Fiastra is perfect, especially with lunch at La Baita. Other shaded hikes we like include the beech forest at Canfaito, the Gola dell’Infernaccio, and Li Vurgacci in Pioraco
Percorso Kneipp. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Take the Sentiero delle Acque in Pieve Torina
This wonderful hike (about 8 kilometers round trip) along the river Sant’Angelo is a delight. It’s largely shaded and stroller accessible. The end reaches a small village with an old mill and a cave. Several waterfalls line the path although swimming there is not allowed. The Kneipp waterpath at the beginning of the trail offers a barefoot experience in the cold water with a variety of earth surfaces and is very energizing at the end of a hike. They’ve recently added a pool area and food stands.
Along the Via delle Cascate Perdute. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Swim under a Waterfall
Our area has hundreds of waterfalls, some hidden better than others. Probably the easiest to find are on the Via delle Cascate Perdute in Sarnano. Not far from the historic center, a series of waterfalls on an easy, mostly shaded, route are discovered and you can cool off in the river!
In Cingoli, this waterpark has fun for adults and children with several swimming pools, water slides, hydro-massages, river rides, and a restaurant. You can book umbrellas and sun beds onsite.
Eat Gelato
Our two favorite gelaterie are Cherry & Cream in Passo Colmurano and Gelateria Enjoy in Tolentino.
One of the most common questions we receive when we welcome guests is: “Where can we find a good pizza?” It takes us 20 minutes to answer because it depends on your preferences. I show them photos of pizzas on my phone, explain the crusts, the toppings, the restaurant ambiance, and the differences between them. So here is our guide to help you navigate our abundance of delicious pizzas in the area.
The closest, least expensive, and thinnest crust is Il Muretto in Colmurano’s main piazza. Eating here, outside, with a view of the Sibillini mountains is classic Italian summer vibes. Benso, the owner and chef, also has a welcoming indoor dining room upstairs. Off the menu, but always available, his antipasti platter is renowned. His baked spinach is to die for, and he makes the best farro that I have ever had.
His pizzas are thin crust and crispy. The dough has great taste and texture. All of their pizzas can be served with tomato sauce or white (without tomato sauce). The toppings are high-quality and flavorful, and in addition to mozzarella he offers some pizzas with scamorza or gorgonzola instead. His ginseng semifreddo is a dessert definitely worth saving room for. You can also order takeaway pizzas.
Il Muretto is open in the summers from Wednesday-Sunday evenings. I always suggest reservations, especially for larger groups. In the winter, they are open Thursdays-Sundays.
Pizzeria Best Of is the next closest, and another favorite of ours. Their dough rises for at least 36 hours and they use a blend of flours including whole wheat, which gives their outside crust a doughier edge that is good for eating. The pizza crust is thin, but thicker than Il Muretto’s.
Best Of has over 70 pizzas on their menu from classic to gourmet, and feature several seasonal specialties that are off the menu. They also make excellent calzones and sandwiches. They have a counter with some pizzas pre-made if you want to pick up a quick snack. Their pizzas and toppings are very innovative and use a variety of sauces like bell pepper, potato, zucchini, artichoke, and many others. My all-time favorite is a zucchini sauce topped with squash blossoms and crispy guanciale. Their toppings are generous, and on occasion I take home leftovers.
Best Of is open Wednesday-Sunday evenings. They have indoor and outdoor dining in the summer. I recommend reservations. You can also order takeaway pizzas.
L’Antico Approdo is one of our favorite restaurants and Paolo makes amazing pizzas in their wood-fired oven. They also have excellent grilled meats and homemade pasta dishes, so there is something for everyone here. They have an extensive selection of Red and White pizzas, and also Crescia, our local flatbread with toppings. Their crust is thin and crispy. They have some delicious unique pizzas that include pears as a topping. I raved about the last pizza I had there: the Gorgo with mozzarella, gorgonzola, and speck.
L’Approdo has a large and welcoming indoor dining area and a courtyard in the summer. They are open Tuesday-Sunday evenings for pizza. They are open for lunch Tuesday-Friday and Sunday but do not have pizzas at lunch. Again, I recommend reservations, but they might be able to accomodate you without, especially if you arrive early. They also offer takeaway pizzas.
La Foresteria is a pizzeria and restaurant in the beautiful Natural Park at the Abbadia di Fiastra. They have a wood fired oven and let their dough rise for 3 days. They make Neapolitan-style pizzas with a higher crispy outside crust, and use flour from Naples. They have a large selection of Red and White pizzas including one in the Carbonara style with an egg. They also have grilled meats and excellent pasta dishes. Both their pizzas and pasta can be made without gluten.
La Foresteria is open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday, but their pizzas are only available at dinner. They have a large indoor dining space. If you have not made reservations, this might be a good place to try. Takeaway service is available.
Osteria San Nicola is in the historic center of Tolentino and they serve pizza at lunch, which is rare! They use ancient local grains for the flour and give their dough a long rising time. Their crust is thin and their toppings are fresh and local. They offer a lot of vegetable options for both Red and White pizzas, and have creative topping combinations.
In addition to pizzas, they have delicious handmade pasta dishes, a lot of soups, and excellent second courses. They have a lovely inside dining area and a small area outside. I recommend reservations. Osteria San Nicola is open for lunch and dinner every day except Tuesday.
Fior di Pizza does takeaway service where you pick your pizza slices from the counter where they are already made. They bring out new pizzas often and have a large variety. The dough is thicker than all the other restaurants. They have an outdoor garden area in the summer where you can eat. It would be an ideal stop on the way to or from the mountains to grab something quick.
As a special bonus, our no-fail method to reheat leftover pizzas is to put your slices in a pan on medium heat and cover it. (We use the pizza box.)
One of the many special qualities about the Marche is that we don’t have one big museum, church, landmark, or famous artwork. We have thousands of them, smaller in scale, scattered all over. Hidden gems, often not promoted, which can make it a challenge, especially for first-time visitors, to discover our best treasures.
At Casa Pace e Gioia, I am always available prior to your stay to help plan an unforgettable holiday specific to your interests. Our Digital Guest Guidebook is also full of local advice to help you explore our beautiful area. And here are 5 towns worth a visit, all within about an hour’s drive from Casa Pace e Gioia, all with an amazing lunch recommendation.
A mural in Braccano. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Braccano, the town of murals, is an unforgettable village of only 150 inhabitants with more than 85 murals painted on the exteriors of buildings, city walls, garages, and doors. Many of them are visible from the main road that bisects the town, but signs along the way point you towards others along narrow and winding alleys of this art-filled town.
The mural project started in 2001 with a partnership between the town and art students from 3 universities and has grown to include international artists. It’s about a 50 minute drive. Park in the well-signed lot across the street from the Museum of the Resistance. The road through town is not busy and it’s not a difficult or steep walk. Several hiking trails crisscross the town, which is in the Monte San Vicino and Monte Canfaito Nature Reserve if you’d like to hike.
Lunch at Murales Ristoro, on the main road in Braccano is memorable. In a casual, art-filled and eclectic space, they serve an excellent meat and cheese platter, grilled meat and vegetarian dishes, and an amazing fritto misto.
Where the prisoners escaped through the wall in Servigliano. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Servigliano is a uniquely flat and Baroque town laid out in squares 35 minutes southeast of Casa Pace e Gioia. The town hosts a rather large market on Monday mornings featuring locally made hats, scarves, and shoes, in addition to the usual local market offerings.
In 1915 a prisoner of war camp was built in Servigliano to house Austrian and Hungarian prisoners. During World War 2, Greek and Allied soldiers were held here until many escaped in 1943 by making a hole in a perimeter wall. The escaped soldiers took refuge with farm families in the area who hid them. Later, under German control, the Servigliano Camp contained Jewish people from the area who were held here until they were sent to Auschwitz. Only one survived. After the war, the camp served as a refugee center.
Today, the camp serves as a “House of Remembrance.” A museum in the former rail station exhibits the history of the camp, and in the adjacent Peace Park, you can see remnants of the past in the barbed wire and glass shards above the wall, and the repaired area where the soldiers escaped. Guided tours are available and I highly recommend it.
Lunch or dinner is a must at the wonderful Pane e Vino in the historic center of Servigliano. This award-winning restaurant has outstanding local cuisine, a fabulous wine list, excellent service, and a lovely ambiance.
Carved monsters on the Li Vurgacci path. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Pioraco is a beautiful town with tributaries of the Potenza river running through it. Paper has been made here since the 1300s and Pioraco hosts a paper making museum where they demonstrate the process. Walking the back alleys, you can see where each house had an external basin connected to the river to do laundry. A long canal runs from the park at the city center and has picturesque bridges which make a nice walk.
The church of the Madonna of the Caves is very interesting, and inside, you can hear the water dripping from the ceiling of the cave. It is very near the entrance to the walking path Li Vurgacci, with waterfalls and stone-carved “monsters” that winds back towards the historic center. A longer path goes up the hill to a scenic overlook with amazing views of the town and the surrounding area. If you want to hike further, numerous marked trails are in the area.
For a relaxing lunch or dinner, I recommend La Fenice Bistrot, just a short walk from the main piazza. The owner is very welcoming, and the food is fresh, local, and delicious.
Palazzo Lazzarini. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Morrovalle is a hilltop town said to have been founded by Charlemagne. Pass through the dramatic gate to reach the medieval historic center, in which the Palazzo Lazzarini hosts a portrait gallery, archeological finds from the 13th century, paintings from the 15th-18th century, and an exposition space. The nearby International Museum of Nativity Scenes has more than 800 scenes from all over the world, made with all sorts of materials, on display.
Exiting the city gate, follow the tree-lined sidewalk to reach the observation point with breathtaking views of the valley below.
Enjoy a wonderful lunch (no dinner) at Trattoria Sammartommè just outside the main gate to the town. Reserve in advance as it is a small but fantastic restaurant with homemade pastas, fish and meat dishes, tasty desserts, and friendly service.
Only a ten minute drive from Morrovalle is the Church of Santa Maria a Piè di Chienti, a national landmark since 1902. This interesting two-level church was first mentioned in 936. The current building was constructed in 1125, and had been modified throughout the centuries. It houses luminous 14th century frescoes in an atmospheric environment.
View from Staffolo. Photo by Heather von Bargen
Staffolo is in the heart of Verdicchio wine country and deserves a visit, especially if you’d like to visit a nearby winery. Their 14th century medieval walls are intact and 2 gates lead into the town. The 13th century Church of Sant’Egidio was used as a hospital during the 1591 plague and has a 15th century polyptych. The nearby 13th century church of San Francesco has numerous artworks and a special organ.
Enoteca Vineritage is a wine bar and restaurant that houses a wine museum where you can see the tools winemakers used in the past.
For weekend lunches and weekday dinners, Osteria Vino e Cucina is unbeatable. They are friendly and the food is incredible: fresh pastas, amazing roasted meats, homemade desserts, and of course, great wine.
