Blog e Gioia

Why Fall is the Best Time to Experience Real Italy

Without a doubt, fall is my favorite time of year to spend at Casa Pace e Gioia. Warm weather and abundant sunshine stretch the swimming season through September. The Adriatic beaches are quiet and uncrowded, yet the waterfront restaurants still serve fresh seafood and rent lounge chairs and umbrellas. In the Sibillini mountains, wildflowers bloom, backdropped by a kaleidoscope of majestic trees changing colors.

September also means the start of the grape harvest (vendemmia) season! Local wineries are busier than usual, but many of them invite visitors to watch their hard work, from hand-picking the grapes, de-stemming, crushing, to filling the large tanks. Some host wine dinners in the vines to celebrate when the harvest is done.

De-stemming the grapes at Podere sul Lago winery

In October, the temperatures drop but still reach the high seventies, and it’s time for the olive harvest (raccolta delle olive). When the olives are ripe, they are picked and brought to a frantoio for pressing into fabulous extra virgin olive oil. You can watch and taste the process by appointment.

We fire up the wood-burning stove in November when the temperatures drop into the fifties and sixties. The Adriatic breeze keeps moisture in the air and here in central Italy, winters are typically mild. Nevertheless, we tuck into cozy restaurants and feast on seasonal wild boar with pappardelle, hearty lentil or chickpea soups, and a local favorite, fresh roasted chestnuts.

The Marchigiani celebrate fall’s harvest and flavors with food festivals called sagre. During these weekend-long festas, the historic center squares become an ever-changing scene with food and market stands; concerts and dancing; parades; street performers; competitions; children’s events; and communal dinners. It’s an opportunity for the community to celebrate the bounty of the harvest, to honor long traditions, and to gather together outdoors before winter.

As a traveler, attending a sagra is an unforgettable and fun way to experience real Italy, to meet Italians, to try regional dishes, and live like a local. Sagre are held year-round, but they abound in the fall. Here are some of the most notable ones not far from Casa Pace e Gioia. Please note that many are postponed or scaled down in 2020 due to Covid. Mark your calendars for 2021. We are taking reservations and filling up fast.

Festival del Vino Cotto Loro Piceno — Photo courtesy of Festival del Vino Cotto – Loro Piceno

The Festival del Vino Cotto in Loro Piceno is at the end of August but it’s one of my favorite sagre. Loro Piceno is justifiably famous for its Vino Cotto, “Cooked wine.” For this weekend event, local Vino Cotto producers set up storefront tasting areas scattered throughout the medieval village where you can sample this unusual and delicious wine. Area restaurants have food stands serving regional dishes eaten at communal picnic tables. Several concert venues host live music and performances.

I Primi d’Italia – This unique festival that celebrates i primi piatti brings visitors from all over Italy to Foligno, in nearby Umbria. Four days of pasta, rice, soup, gnocchi, and polenta tastings; cooking lessons; chef demonstrations; free concerts and shows; and a children’s festival highlight the events that take place in Foligno’s beautiful historic center.

Cupramontana’s Sagra dell’Uva is the oldest celebration of the grape harvest in Le Marche and is held at the end of September or the beginning of October. Live music in the piazza accompanies wine and food tasting tables. Museums display exhibitions, parades, demonstrations and shows are performed.

The beautiful town of San Severino Marche holds a Sagra della Porchetta, usually the first weekend in October with live music and DJs in addition to all the porchetta you can imagine!

Diamanti a Tavola The first week in November Amandola pays homage to its white truffle with a truffle fair, truffle hunts, loads of organized outdoor activities, like hikes, mountain bike rides, photography tours, markets, shows, restaurant tastings, and much more.

Appassimenti Aperti Serrapetrona — Photo courtesy of Appassimenti Aperti

Appassimenti Aperti in Serrapetrona. On the second and third Sundays in November, the cantine in nearby Serrapetrona open their doors to visitors who can tour freely and see the notable vernaccia grapes hanging in rows to dry. In the town square, the festivities continue with a market, food and wines, and music.

Things to do in Le Marche with kids

Le Marche is a fantastic holiday destination for families. With our beaches, mountains, parks, museums, castles, and sights, there is something for everyone of all ages to enjoy. Here are some of our recommendations of things to do with kids.

Parco Archeologico Urbs Salvia and La Rocca

In nearby Urbisaglia this 40-hectare archeological park is the largest in the area and dates to AD 23. Roman ruins from the first century are spread out over a large area of what used to be a bustling and important Roman city. The amphitheater is remarkably well preserved and very suggestive, surrounded by oaks. The criptoportico’s walls are decorated with vivid first-century frescoes. A walk up the hill takes you past the theater, and reaching the top of the hill, and the city walls of Urbisaglia, you can enter the tunnel of the aqueduct that supplied the city with fresh water. The park often hosts special events for children and the large lawn encourages play.

The restored medieval castle, La Rocca overlooks Urbisaglia’s piazza and gives children of all ages an amazing view from the walkways and towers.

Il Giardino delle Farfalle di Cessapalombo – The Butterfly Garden of Cessapalombo

Less than 30 minutes from Casa Pace e Gioia this nature park and museum in the Sibillini mountains was created with kids in mind and has more than just butterflies! This large green space has pathways, guided tours, donkeys, a play area, and flowers that attract the butterflies. With advanced reservation you can order a lunch to enjoy at the shaded picnic tables immersed in relaxing nature.

Lake Fiastra

The Lago di Fiastra is a gem in the Sibillini Mountains, just off the main road. The lake’s clear water reflects the gorgeous scenery. At Verdi Fiastra, you can lounge under umbrellas by the beach or rent canoes, kayaks, and bicycles. The onsite restaurant serves local food with lakefront views.

Photo courtesy of the Adventure Park Lago di Fiastra

Close by Fiastra Lake is the Adventure Park Lago di Fiastra, a suspended ropes course and zip-line path through the trees and over the water in the Sibillini Mountain National Park. Suitable for children over 140 cm (4.59 feet), additional activities like archery and orienteering are also available.

Also near Lago di Fiastra is the hiking trail to the Lame Rosse, a stunning red canyon that appears in the midst of an oak forest. The “Red Blades” are pinnacles of gravel, clay, and silt, formed by the wind and rain that blows through the area. The 7-kilometer round trip path starts at the parking lot near the dam and is rated easy.

The Frasassi Caves

The Grotte of Frisassi — Photo by Federico Stella, courtesy of Regione Marche

The Grotte di Frasassi is the largest cave system in Europe and among the largest in the world. Its stunning raw beauty matches its size; the first room, the Ancona Abyss, could contain the Duomo of Milan. A guided tour takes you on an easy 1500-meter-long walkway that wends through a variety of caverns with lakes, stalactites, stalagmites, and crystal formations.

Very near the the Grotte di Frasassi is the Sanctuary of Madonna di Frasassi, which dates to 1029, and the Temple of Valadier, an octagonal church commissioned by the pope in 1828. The shimmering temple is made of white local travertine and inside a cave! It is a 750 meter walk uphill from the parking lot where you can fill your water bottle for the climb.

The Abbadia di Fiastra

The Natural Reserve of the Abbadia di Fiastra is very close to Casa Pace e Gioia and is a large, well-maintained park with good parking, restrooms, and shaded walking trails in a variety of natural environments with plenty of benches. The Sensory Trail is designed for those with limited mobility or limited vision and is optimized for sound, touch, and smell. The abbey church, monastery, and cloisters are worth a visit and host the Farm, Wine, and Archeological museums. Large lawns invite running and picnics. Several onsite restaurants, (one has a playground and farm animals) ensure that you can easily spend a fun day at the park!

La Cascata del Mulino. Photo by Heather von Bargen

Hidden Waterfalls

In Sarnano, a borghì più belli d’Italia (one of the most beautiful villages in Italy) the access trail to reach the charming waterfalls of the old mill just reopened. In Italian, il Percorso Cascata del Mulino. Park by the municipal pool and sports park on Via del Colle and follow the posted signs that bring you to a small but suggestive area with shallow water and a lovely waterfall.

The Adriatic Beaches

The beaches of Civitanova Marche are only 30 minutes away! The Lungomare Nord has shallower water and sandier beaches than the Sud and rocky outcroppings give bigger children something to jump from. If the kids tire of swimming, many beach establishments have playgrounds. All of the balneari have food available and umbrellas and beach chairs for rent.

What locals love most about spring in Le Marche

Poppy field in Le Marche, Italy.
Things to do in Le Marche in Spring — Poppy field with a Roman ruin

Spring in Le Marche brings fields of red poppies, grapevines growing, and baby olives sprouting. After a winter spent largely indoors, the Marchigiani enjoy the primavera outside. This year is an obvious exception. The Marchigiani have been in lockdown for 8 weeks as of this writing.

I asked our friends in the Marche what they like best about our area in the spring, and what they look forward to doing as soon as the lockdown is lifted. Here are their responses, some edited for clarity and some translated by me. While we are unable to enjoy Le Marche’s springtime delights this year, we can look forward to 2021.

Baby olives in Le Marche, Italy
Things to do in Le Marche in spring — Baby Olives

“In the spring, in the Marche, there are beautiful things to do. First of all, there are beautiful country and hill paths to travel. They are not tiring, therefore suitable for everyone, dazzling vegetation, flowers of a thousand colors, wild animals (foxes, porcupines, hedgehogs, owls, pheasants, hares, roe deer, wolves). Various paths lead to caves (here, near us, there are the caves of Sant’Eustachio that can be visited), others develop along the rivers. Almost always you get to some small village and many are truly wonderful. Then there are the Apennines to visit, with easy routes and others more demanding (some also very demanding): mountains to climb (from the Bove to the Vettore). And then go out to find and taste the local products: ciabuscolo, pecorino cheeses, lasagna, excellent native wines. Finally, never forget to visit the cities of art that are not lacking in the Marche.”
-Adelaide and Sandro at Il Podere sul Lago, who make amazing wines and offer welcoming tours and tastings by appointment.

“Take walks in our oasis the abbey of Fiastra! To head towards the sea during the weekend, the mountain is also another half that we love!”
-Our friend Donatella

The lawn at the Abbadia di Fiastra, Italy. Things to do in Le Marche in Spring — The lawn at the Abbadia di Fiastra

“ONE OF MY FAVORITE MARCHE SPRINGTIME FAVORITES — The BICYCLE RIDE up to FIASTRA LAKE
Given that in Italy’s version of lockdown, we are NOT permitted to ride our bicycles, this is one I’m missing mightily and anxiously anticipating. One of my Marche springtime favorites is the ride from San Ginesio, down into the valley, a quick coffee at Gianni’s Bar Monti Azzurri in Morichella, and then the magnificent climb from there up to Fiastra Lake. The first time you do it in the spring, the morning air starts out chilly. As you make the climb into the mountains the sun warms you, the fresh air fuels you and the spectacular scenery inspires you. How is this not a center of world cycling tourism?!”
-Kevin Gibney, Registered Le Marche Real Estate Agent, Property For Sale Marche (and the reason we have Casa Pace e Gioia!)

Bicycle ride to Lake Fiastra, Italy
Property for Sale Marche — Photo from Kevin Gibney, Property for Sale Marche

“The Marche’s infinite beauty, there are many things to do and visit starting from the greenery that abounds in spring and we will begin with a nice walk to Lake Fiastra nestled in the mountains and maybe even a walk to collect wild asparagus for a nice tagliatelle. To see the sea from the balcony of Torre di Palme, and why not sip a wine in a beautiful wine shop, in this small-but-full-of-surprises land.”
-Our friend Amelia

“Spring is wonderful weather-wise. Warm, clear blue skies, temperatures reaching regular 20’s [68-75° F] and total silence, apart from the birds and the occasional tractor. If it is peace and tranquility you need in your life, Colmurano is certainly offers this and much more.”
-Our friend and neighbor Graham who offers Wine Vacations in the Marche and owns Laughter in the Leaves with his wife Saranne.

Sibillini mountains, Italy
Things to do in Le Marche — Springtime View of the Sibillini Mountains and the countryside from Casa Pace e Gioia

Sagra del Carciofo
“Montelupone’s artichokes are special. So special that the town has celebrated them in an annual festival in May for 58 years. [It has been cancelled for 2020.] The festival is naturally focused on food, and dishes prepared with artichokes at the heart of them (sorry). There’s also a parade and folklore group performances, a variety of other entertainment, and guided tours of the beautiful old town and its treasures – Montelupone is one of I Borghi più belli d’Italia (one of the most beautiful villages in Italy), and has also been awarded the Italian Touring Club’s Bandiera Arancione (the orange flag awarded to small towns for eco-environmental tourism, excellent service, and welcoming atmosphere).”

Corso alla Spada e Palio
“The province’s first medieval festival of the season kicks off with Camerino’s Corsa alla Spada e Palio over several weeks in May and June. [Cancelled for 2020.] The festival recalls the days when the powerful Da Varano family ruled their papal dukedom for over 200 years. Dating back to the early 13th century as a community competition and pageant to complement remembrance of the town’s patron saint, Venanzio, it was resurrected in 1982, keeping the centuries-old traditions largely intact.

The festival is centered around several main events:
• Offerta dei Ceri: Offering of the candles – medieval procession and lighting of the bonfire
• Fiera di San Venanzio: Fair of the town’s patron saint in the streets of the town
• Corteo Storico: Sumptuous parade in period costume
• Corso alla Spada: Race for the Sword – the town’s three terzieri (districts) compete in a foot race through the town’s streets for the prize of the sword.

There are many, many other events including markets, archery, the ladies’ and children’s palio, flag-waving, and music or some other form of entertainment virtually every night. Each of the town’s divisions opens their respective tavernas every night at 20:00, serving period food.”
-Duncan Campbell, our friend and neighbor.