Blog e Gioia

The 10 Best Things to do in the Winter in the Marche

The Marche are full of treasures to be discovered, and in the winter those treasures are even easier to find. In winter you’ll find more private tours and guided hikes, personal wine tastings, opportunities to meet local artisans, and a great time to enjoy some of our best regional cuisine.

Marche winters are usually mild, driven by the Adriatic sea and the Sibillini Mountains. Temperatures range from overnight lows of 0° C (32°F) to highs of 18°C (65°). We eat lunch outside regularly in the winter! It may snow, but it does not last long at our elevation. Often morning fog rolls in the valley and clears to blue skies with fabulous views of the snow-covered mountains in the distance.

Winter Food Specialties!

Winter Food Festivals feature seasonal dishes in a fun atmosphere with roasted chestnuts, new harvest wine, polenta, wild boar, winter truffles, tortellini in brodo, and many more winter specialties. Dine in the warmth of large tents and communal tables for an unforgettable authentic and immersive meal.

Likewise, we have some area restaurants that we prefer to go to in the winter for their welcoming ambiance and hearty food. Something about a fireplace in the corner and a steaming plate of pasta or soup warms the soul. If you follow us on social media you know that to me, winter means Cappelletti in Brodo. Really, Cappelletti in Brodo is reason enough to come visit in the winter. As a special treat for our winter guests, Cappelletti in Brodo is on us at any of the restaurants that we recommend in our guest app.

Enjoy the Outdoors!

Admire the holiday decorations in every village. Festive lights adorn the piazze, as do nativity scenes—some of them with live characters! Buy handcrafted gifts or local specialties at the many Christmas markets. On Epiphany, (6 January) watch the witch Befana descend the clock tower to deliver stockings to good girls and boys.

Winter is still a great time to hike the area’s many natural parks. Fall colors still abound into December. And in the winter, you’re treated to waterfalls along your route. Local guides lead organized walks or you can set out on your own with our many suggestions in our guest app.

For winter sports, head to the nearby Sibillini mountains to snowshoe, downhill or cross-country ski, snowboard, or sled. Webcams display conditions and rentals are available at the ski centers. Sarnano and Macerata have outdoor rinks for ice skating.

Winter sales!

If you like to shop, the winter sales (saldi) start around the 5-6 of January every year. Our area in the Marche is full of outlet shops with high-quality goods made in the Marche. In fact, one-third of the shoes made in Italy are made in the Marche. The winter saldi are an incredible opportunity to save even further! We have a map of outlet shops in our guest app and I can recommend several trusted shops nearby.

Food and Wine Tastings!

Our Marche winemakers produce spectacular, under the radar wines. We have a collaboration with the best food and wine tour guide in the Marche, Marco of Marco’s Way, and winter is a fabulous opportunity to take a tour with him to meet small, family-run producers who make wines with soul. Marco will design a tour to your tastes and also introduce you to local food artisans.

Guided Tours!

Winter is a fantastic time to take a guided tour. They are usually €5-15 per person, and are more readily available in the winter. A hiking guide will explain why the tree you’re passing is special. On you own, you would likely walk past it without understanding the significance. The guide at the Abbadia di Fiastra tells you why there are two address placards on the Abbey door. The guide in Urbisaglia points out that the Romans washed blood from Gladiator fights out of an innocuous hole to drain towards the river. We have a list of recommended guides in our guest app.

Enjoy cultural events at the many museums, churches, theaters, and monuments that are open in the winter. It’s opera, exhibition, and concert season, and you’ll be amazed at the wide variety of performances available. From “Sister Act” to gospel choirs, to classical music to pop, there’s something for everyone.

The Frasassi Caves!

Winter is a great time to see the amazing Frasassi Caves, the largest cave system in Europe and the most-visited destination in the Marche. The temperature in the caves is constant at 14°C or 57°F, and without summer crowds, there’s no need for advanced reservations or to wait in long lines to buy tickets.

If you’d like to truly discover a hidden Italy, to feel like a local, then winter is the best time to come stay at Casa Pace e Gioia.

How to Shop Like a Local in Colmurano

Alessandro, Ivana, and Eleonora — Eleonora, Ivana, and Alessandro

We found the butcher in Colmurano by accident, having parked in front of his shop to use the ATM across the street. Viale de Amicis is the only road that bisects our village, so naturally it is where most of our shops are services are. But there was no “Macelleria” sign on the building. Indeed, there was no sign on the storefront at all. I just happened to see a small placard with opening hours, and peeking through the window, meat in a display case.

Ever since, we visit Alessandro, his mother Ivana, and his wife Eleonora for more than just meat. It’s amazing what they fit into their small store. One of our early favorite discoveries is a “rotolo,” a chicken breast with meatball stuffing, wrapped in guanciale, rolled up and tied. Their mortadella, porchetta, and turkey alla porchetta has fed us sandwich lunches countless times, and they sell delicious local breads too! We also have fun learning what things are in Italian. They make a wonderful “cannoli,” but rather than a sweet dessert from Sicily, this is a roll of prosciutto cotto with mozzarella stuffed with olives.

When we order meat, Alessandro always asks what we’re using it for, to make sure we get the right cut. Matt has been making a fantastic pork or chicken stir-fry and we told him it was like Chinese food, not knowing the Italian word for stir-fry. Their steaks for grilling are beyond delicious. I was never a big steak eater, but the meat here tastes better. I really appreciate their pre-formed meatballs and their pre-breaded cutlets. It makes kitchen preparation so much faster, especially for my Prosciutto and Fontina cutlets recipe.

Most of all, their homemade sausages have become a staple. Matt uses them to make American breakfast, and crumbled on pizza. I use them in an easy and delicious sausage and cream sauce with pasta, in risotto with sausage, in lentil soup, or on skewers with vegetables. We will have many more recipes for you that feature their local meats.

There still isn’t a “Macelleria” sign. Look for a cream building on the corner across from the bank. The door has beads in it and when you walk through those beads, Alessandro, Ivana, or Eleonora (or all three) will greet you with a smile, a “Ciao” and then “dimmi,” which means, tell me (what you would like). In addition to their extensive selection of meats, they also sell a wide variety of pantry goods, fresh and dried pastas, sauces, beer and wines, excellent local cheeses, and much more.

Frutta e Verdure — Fruit and Vegetable Store

Francesco and his mother Lorena run the fruit and vegetable store, and they also ask what we’re making with our produce. A tomato for a salad is different than one for a sauce. Of the 3 different types of Radicchio they had, one is better with grilled mortadella and balsamic. Their shop is just down the block on the other side of the street. A “Mercatino della Frutta” sign makes it easy to find. Everything is fresh, almost everything is local, and it’s always reasonably priced. In addition to fruits and vegetables they also sell home-made marinated olives with garlic and orange peel, and farm-fresh eggs. Often they have stuffed and/or breaded vegetables ready to cook.

Heading back up the street a half-block, Isabella’s Alimentari is on the same side of the street in a green building with a small sign and beads in the doorway. With an impressive selection of items packed in a small space, she’s also a good source for pantry staples, cheeses, and eggs. Matt gets his breakfast cookies here. She is super friendly and often has pre-made meals of lasagna, porchetta, or fish ready to re-heat.

Down the street below the city walls, I Sette Artigiani is our local bakery, famous throughout the region. They make the best baked goods and also sell pantry staples and local specialties. Their tarts and cookies are amazing. Really, everything is! They are also super friendly and welcoming and can suggest the perfect type of bread for whatever we’re looking for.

Further down the road is our favorite local winery, Saputi. For everyday drinking, we buy their 5 liter “Bag in Box.” Our favorite is the Rosso Piceno for red and Passerina for white, although they have a variety of wines available in the box. An organic winery, their award-winning bottled wines are impressive. They are famous for their Ribona, a white wine made from a local native grape that is very typical of this area. It’s the wine we selected to gift to our summer guests. It’s local, unique, delicious, and chilled in the refrigerator upon arrival. So when you run out, now you’ll know where to get more!

How to Park a Car in Italy

I was at a laundromat in Mantova watching my clothes tumble dry when a car going backwards down the street caught my eye. The driver approached an improbably small parking space on the left side of the street. Traffic behind him came to a standstill. As the driver backed in, his rear bumper hit the car behind him. He did not appear concerned, repeated the maneuver, then pulled ahead, hitting the car in front.

The driver got out and nonchalantly walked down the sidewalk. Traffic moved again. ‘So that’s how you parallel park,’ I thought, ‘just hit the cars in front and behind yours.’

The day prior, I had tried and failed to parallel park and drove well past my destination to park in a spot I could pull into.

Despite my inability to parallel park, I’ve driven, and parked, all-around Italy, from tiny Sicilian villages to rush hour in Milan. If I can park in Italy, surely you can too. If you can parallel park, you’re a big step ahead. And if you’re like me, I have hints to help you avoid it.

Parking in Italy is pretty straight-forward once you understand the signs and symbols. Parking spots are marked in lots or along the streets. Blue lines mean you have to pay, white lines are free, and yellow ones are reserved for residents, deliveries, or otherwise off-limits to the average tourist. Parking areas are denoted with a blue sign and a white P.

To understand no parking signs, remember that parking is blue, and things you can’t do are red. No parking is denoted with a blue circle with a red frame and a red backslash though it. Signs are posted on the side that forbids parking. You may also see the words “passo carrabile” on garage doors that seem like a great parking spot until you notice it’s a driveway. No stopping signs add another line to make a big red X over the blue circle. If a street does not have a no-parking sign, you can most likely park along it, as long as you keep the driveways clear.

To pay for blue-lined parking spaces, find the small machine nearby. Often the directions are in English. The price per minute will be posted. Insert euros in coins, bills, and increasingly, a credit card, or payment app. The machine will then print out a small slip which you put on your dashboard with the date and time displayed. I have seen the police check, so it’s worth the small amount to comply.

White lines represent free parking, although it may be time-limited. If you see a parking sign with a blue rectangle and what looks like a white smiley-face, you’ll need to set your disco orario. The sign indicates the duration of your free parking – 30 minuti and un’ora are the most common. Your rental car should have a disco orario, either in a small pouch stuck to the windshield or on the dashboard. If your car does not have one, you can buy one inexpensively at a tobaccaio which is a small store displayed by a “T”, or a gas station. Set the spin-dial on the disco orario to show the time you arrived. And no cheating – the police may check.

If you see a sign with crossed hammers it means the parking limit posted only applies Mondays through Saturdays. In other words, on Sundays or holidays, the posted restrictions are not enforced.

This sign means you pay to park from 8 AM-1 PM, and 3 PM-8 PM except on holidays or Sundays.

Typically, it is harder to find and more expensive to pay for parking in larger cities and as you near any town’s centro storico. Walled cities and small villages often have large lots outside the perimeter for campers and oversized vehicles. If you can walk distances, this is a great way to pull into a space without parallel parking and to avoid driving in cramped areas. If there is a fee, it usually costs less than within the town. On market days or holidays, it can be a huge time saver as well.

Most parking lots are unattended and require prepayment at entry, or you’ll take a ticket upon entrance and pay upon exit after inserting your ticket.

The smaller the town, the more likely you are to find free parking. It’s not uncommon to see parked cars facing both directions, but often parking is limited to one side of the street only.

If you are staying in a hotel, B&B, or Airbnb, ask your host about parking. Some can get you a pass or register your car with the local authorities so you can access a limited traffic zone (ZTL) and park. Especially in large cities, the nearest parking lot outside the ZTL is a long distance away. Some urban hotels have their own lots—if you can get in and out while avoiding the ZTL, but expect to pay. One hotel we like in Rome charges €70 per day to park.

You may want to upgrade your rental car to one with distance sensors and a backup camera. Once you’re parked, fold in your side mirrors. I was excited when attending a large festival to find a great parking spot in a large empty lot. By the time we left, the lot was packed with cars. I thought we would be stuck there. Even with sensors, it took a friend and a police officer to direct me out of the tight squeeze.

The phrase “Dove posso parcheggiare?” may come in handy. It’s pronounced doe-vay poe-so park-eh-jar-eh. It means where can I park? I’ve always been given good guidance by passersby when I’ve asked. Once, after struggling to translate a sign in front of a parking lot, a local gentleman came over to explain it was free. My confusion stemmed from the lack of any lines whatsoever in a giant lot just across the street from a Mediterranean beach in Sicily.

In a tiny medieval village in Sicily I found a free overnight parking spot on the left with nothing in front of it. Thrilled, I backed into it no problem. But, never having successfully parked on the left, when I opened the door, it whacked the curb. I put three scratches on a brand-new black rental car. Thankfully I always travel with a Sharpie marker. If you do end up parking on the left side of the road, take care when opening your door, and consider packing a marker.

Useful Links:

Everything you need to know about renting a car in Italy

Everything you need to know to drive in Italy

Waze: https://www.waze.com/waze

Polizia di Stato information on camera speed enforcement (Italian, use Chrome or an extension to translate): https://www.poliziadistato.it/articolo/175

Autostrada website in English

PDF of Road Signs in English to Bring With: http://www.adcidl.com/pdf/Italy-Road-Traffic-Signs.pdf

Rome’s ZTL information: https://romamobilita.it/en/services/limited-traffic-zones

Milan’s Area C information in English: https://www.comune.milano.it/servizi/area-c-acquisto-ticket-attivazione-ricarica

Autoeurope has a guidebook in English for driving in Italy: https://www.autoeurope.com/pdf/travelguides/italy-travel-driving-guide-auto-europe.pdf

The Automobile Club of Italia is an excellent resource for advice in several languages: http://www.aci.it/laci/driving-in-italy/driving-in-italy-information-for-visiting-motorists.html

The Hertz guide to driving in Italy: https://images.hertz.com/pdfs/DL_Driving_in_Italy_NO_CROPS.pdf

The Hertz guide to ZTLs: https://images.hertz.com/pdfs/Brochure_nocrops.pdf

Wikipedia’s Road Signs in Italy Page: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_signs_in_Italy