Blog e Gioia

How to Rent a Car in Italy

Car in street in Italy. — Car on a street in Macerata

If you want to experience authentic and idyllic Italy, you’ll find it by driving through gorgeous countrysides and historic villages that don’t have train stations. You’ll discover artistic treasures, hyperlocal food and wines, jaw-dropping scenery, ancient ruins, soaring architecture, lower prices, and fewer tourists.

I do not like to drive, I cannot parallel park, and I have terrible navigation skills. Yet I’ve driven rental cars from Milan in the north to Sicily in the south, and the central mountains in-between. I’ve crept along cobblestone cart paths six inches wider than my Fiat and raced on the autostrada in an Audi, getting a speeding ticket and a ZTL fine along the way. I’ve been charged for damage to a rental car that I did not cause, which I chalked up to karma, having previously used a Sharpie marker to hide scratches that I did cause.

Here’s everything you need to know to rent a car in Italy.

Bring your IDP

Italians drive on the right-hand side of the road, so for Americans-no challenge. You’ll need a valid drivers license and an International Driving Permit, which you can get at a AAA office, or by mail. You do not have to be a AAA member. It costs $20 and is good for one year from the date they write on it. Hint: Ask the clerk to date it the first day of your rental.

Insurance

Before reserving a car, check your credit card for Collision Damage Waiver insurance on rental cars in Italy. Many credit cards exclude Italy. Mastercard World Elite cards offer it in Italy for rentals less than 31 days and up to $50,000. If your card offers insurance, ask them to send you a letter of coverage that you can bring to show the agent who may try to upsell you into their coverage options. Remember to decline the rental agency’s CDW, or you’ll pay for theirs.

If your card does not provide insurance, add it to your rental at booking or at the counter. A rental agency employee once told me that 90% of their agency’s rentals come back with some sort of damage.

Can you Drive a Stick Shift?

Automatic transmissions are not as common in Italy. You may have to pay higher rates for an automatic car, although it varies by area. If you can drive a stick-shift, you can save significantly.

Consider a smaller car, especially if you’ll be driving in busy cities or small medieval villages. Many small-town roads were once cart paths and are shockingly narrow. Medieval walled cities are often accessed by centuries-old gates. A gentleman who had moved to an apartment in a walled town told me that the van he had rented to move his belongings got stuck in the city gate! Most villages have a carpark outside the walls for larger vehicles and campers.

If your destination includes mountainous or rural areas along gravel or dirt roads, don’t rent a low-profile sports car, like an Alfa Romeo Giulia. Get something with more height, and consider an automatic transmission if you’ll be in a hilly area.

Click Around

Start your car rental search on Kayak.com for a rough idea of anticipated rental costs, then book direct with the rental company website. If you’re a AAA member, start on the AAA website. They often have a Hertz discount and have always had the lowest prices for Hertz, Dollar, and Thrifty. I’ve had no problems renting with Europcar and Sixt, who are transparent about added insurance costs. Leasys Rent is an Italian company that often has excellent prices.

Rental prices may be less expensive in off-airport locations and at train stations.

One-way rentals are available but you may pay more to drop off at a different location.

Drivers less than 26 years old may be charged a young-driver surcharge.

Car seats are required for children aged 4 and younger. Booster seats are required for those under 12 or 1.5 meters, approximately 4.9 feet. If you do not bring your own, rentals are available.

Check your roaming data allotment and speed to make sure they can support GPS. You may want to pay extra for a car with built-in GPS.

At major airports, there might be a “Gold” counter, but in most cases you need to queue to get your keys and contract, so allow extra time to pick up your rental. We once waited almost 2 hours to get a rental car from a well-known agency. Be aware that in some off-airport locations the office will close for lunch and have stated opening hours, outside of which you cannot pick up or drop off a car.

ZTL sign narrow road in Colmurano. — ZTL sign for limited traffic in Colmurano.

Check before you Rent

Research the parking and driving laws where you’ll be driving. A good place to start is your accommodation facility. For example, much of Rome’s historic center is in a “ZTL” area which means auto traffic is limited to residents with permits. Most cities have vehicular restrictions, but in some cases your hotel can register your car with the local authorities or you can purchase a pass for admittance. If I had bought a five-euro Area C pass for Milan, I would have saved the $50 fine assessed by the rental car company.

Yes, the rental car company will charge you anywhere from $30-75 in “administrative fees” for handing your information over to the local authorities if you violate any parking, driving, or speeding rules. In other words, every fine you incur is charged twice: once by the car rental agency, and once by the police.

If you are driving in the winter, November 1-April 30, you may need snow chains or winter tires, even if it’s not snowing. The police conduct random checks and the fines for noncompliance range from €41 to €335. Some car rental agencies offer this option when selecting your car online, but if not, ask at the counter, and expect to pay a modest fee. Each region sets their own schedule so check before you rent to determine your destination’s rules. (Please note that these links are in Italian but you can use Google Chrome to automatically translate.)

Rental Fiat on lot. How to rent a car in Italy. — Take pictures before you leave the lot.

Take pictures of your rental!

When you do pick up your rental, examine it thoroughly for damage and verify that all of the damages are noted in your contract. Take pictures of the car with your phone before leaving the lot. One time I forgot to do so in a fit of jet lag, and I was charged $140 for a scratched rim that I did not scratch.

As you’re putting your luggage in the trunk, you might see a kit or a pouch in it. Italian law requires that drivers have a warning triangle and place it 50 meters away from the car in the event of a breakdown. A reflective vest must also be worn when stopped at night, in poor visibility, or in the emergency lane. Those items are usually found in the trunk but sometimes in the glove compartment.

Italians have a saying: “ne vale la pena,” which means, “It’s worth it.” And it is. Italy’s secrets are revealed to those who rent a car and drive to hidden gems.

In the next posts, I’ll cover everything you need to know to drive and park in Italy.

If you have any questions or think of something I have forgotten please leave a comment.

Buon viaggio!

7 Perfect Summer Days in the Marche

At Casa Pace e Gioia we are lucky because there are so many things to do in our area, all year round. So we put together our version of an ideal summer week at Casa Pace e Gioia that introduces you to the Marche’s nearby hidden gems, and also gives you time to relax in the quiet countryside, without hurry. Because when returning home, no one wants to feel like they need to recover from their vacation. Presenting our 7 Perfect Summer Days in the Marche…

Day 1:

Arrive and relax with a glass of wine, wander the grounds and take in the views.

If it’s lunchtime, try Osteria San Nicola, il Santo Bevitore, or Alimentari Fioretti in the historic center of Tolentino, a 15 minute drive.

In the afternoon after the shops reopen, head to nearby Colmurano and pick up award-winning wines directly at the Saputi family’s cantina. They’ll treat you to a quick tasting if you’d like to try before you buy. Then head to the renowned bakery I Sette Artigiani, for breads and sweets. Up the main street through town you’ll find an excellent butcher, a small but well-stocked grocery store, and a large fruit and vegetable market with delicious olives.

There should be enough time for a swim or to relax in the hanging chairs before your Private Chef is ready to serve your Welcome Dinner! You’ll dine under the loggia with views of the sun setting over the valley and depending on the month, fireflies. Your private chef will prepare traditional local foods, paired with wine, and explain the provenance. They’ll also clean up everything, so no mess for you to deal with.

Marco Candi with Laura Dezi at a wine tasting

Day 2:

You’ll spend the day on a Wine and Food Tour with Marco’s Way.

Marco will pick you up at 9 AM for an unforgettable introduction to our local foods and wines. You’ll visit 2-3 small family owned wineries that use native grapes to make a stunning variety of exceptional wines. He will also take you to a local olive oil producer for a tour and tasting. You’ll lunch very well at a winery or a local typical restaurant. Marco is a native Marchigiano who has a wealth of history and information about the area which will further enrich your tour.

Once home, if you have any room, find a casual dinner nearby, like Il Muretto, Pizzeria Best Of, or L’Approdo.

First Century Frescoes in the Temple at Urbs Salvia

Day 3:

Tour the nearby First-century Roman ruins of Urbs Salvia with a guide to put it all into context for you. Preserved by a landslide, the ruins are now excavated and scattered among the 40 hectare archeological park, where they continue to unearth more discoveries. The upper part in Urbisaglia includes the aqueduct reservoir, within the city walls, which shows how the Romans engineered a safe water supply. Descending the hill, you’ll see the theater, the amphitheater, and the temple with first-century frescoes.

Also in Urbisaglia, La Rocca is a 12–15th century castle overlooking Piazza Garibaldi. It has amazing views of the countryside from its four towers. Enjoy a gelato, caffè, or an aperitivo at our favorite bar in the piazza that faces the church behind La Rocca.

Lunch in Urbisaglia under the loggia at Le Logge, a favorite restaurant of many. The Tombolini family is welcoming and Chef Andrea offers creative interpretations of traditional local dishes.

Enjoy the afternoon at home in the pool.

For dinner tonight you’re headed to Il Sigillo in the lovely medieval town of Camporotondo di Fiastrone. Il Sigillo is an intimate family owned restaurant with stone walls and a relaxing ambiance. Stefano, who runs the front of the house, has curated an excellent wine list and is an expert at pairing them with the delicious homemade dishes that his sister and mother make. Save room for Cinzia’s special desserts.

A walking path at the Abbadia di Fiastra Natural Reserve

Day 4:

Sleep in and get a good night’s rest after what might have been a late evening. Hang out in the pool, play bocce or ping pong.

At lunchtime, drive to the nearby Abbadia di Fiastra Natural Reserve. Eat on the patio at Ristorante da Rosa, and pick from many traditional local dishes and seasonal specials. Their homemade ravioli is particularly outstanding, and their homemade desserts are fabulous.

Walk off lunch along the walking trails throughout the park, including one designed without obstacles for the visually impaired and incorporates the senses of hearing, touch, and smell. Another trail traverses past a woodland area and is the last example of the historical forests that once covered Le Marche.

Visit the park’s namesake Abbey Church, founded in 1142 and one of the best-preserved Cistercian abbeys in Italy. The cloisters are particularly beautiful. The Farm Museum, the Archaeological Collection, and the Wine Museum provide a fascinating history to this unique area.

Dine in the historic city center in Tolentino at il Santo Bevitore, known for their creative seafood dishes and excellent wines to pair with them. If you haven’t already, stroll down the block to admire our notable clocktower and continue on to the nearby Basilica of San Nicola and its peaceful cloister.

Lame Rosse, Sibillini National Park — Lame Rosse

Day 5:

Today you’re driving to the Sibillini National Park to reach the trailhead of the hike to the Lame Rosse. The famous“Red Blades” are unusual and amazing rock pinnacles and towers caused by erosion and held together by clay and silts. In the mornings they glow red, but they are spectacular any time of the day. The 7 kilometer hike takes about 3 hours round trip and begins with a walk over the Fiastra Lake and the dam that created it.

When you’ve finished your hike, lunch at nearby Rifugio di Tribbio which has a peaceful position in the mountains and fantastic local dishes.

After lunch, drive up the narrow road to the ruins of the Malagotti castle and the church of San Paolo. From the summit, admire the panoramic view of the Fiastra Lake and wander among the ruins, scattered with wildflowers and frequented by birds.

Take a scenic route back and head towards Bolognola, Sassotetto, and Sarnano to experience more of the park. You may encounter sheep in the road and see cows grazing in the fields. Wild orchids, other wildflowers, and flowering trees often line the roadway.

The medieval fortified town of Sarnano is named one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy. Park in the piazza and walk through the gate to wander the concentric circles of this attractive brick town.

From Sarnano, it’s an easy drive on SP78 to return home.

After a long day hiking, for dinner, take it easy and have a pizza night. Il Muretto in Colmurano is only 5 minutes away and has excellent pizzas. They also have take out if you prefer to eat at home.

Beach on the Conero Coast. Photo courtesy of Turismo Marche

Day 6:

After hiking the mountains, relax at the beach!

The closest beach is 30 minutes away at Civitanova Marche where both the North and South beaches have Blue Flag status for cleanliness and quality. Select one of our recommended beach chalets and rent chaise loungers and umbrellas for the day, several chalets also have beach sports and kids activities.

Alternatively, the Mount Conero coast beaches south of Ancona are just an hour away. Under tall cliffs dotted with villages, these suggestive beaches boast a beautiful panorama. Stand up paddling, canoe rentals, windsurfing, and kitesurfing are offered. You can also rent an inflatable boat and see the famous “Due Sorelle” rock formation and spend your day on a beach accessible only by boat.

No matter what area you choose, have lunch on the beach barefoot or at a nearby waterfront restaurant where you’re certain to find fresh Adriatic seafood on the menu.

If you make it back to the house in time for dinner, I suggest Terra Nostra, in nearby San Ginesio, where you can eat inspired local dishes outside with a view of the mountains and the setting sun.

Day 7:

It’s your last day. So you’re enjoying it fully, at home in the pool, playing lawn games or ping pong. If you don’t have leftovers for lunch, head to Norcineria. It’s very close by, casual, they have outdoor dining, a playground for kids, and delicious antipasti, pastas, sandwiches, meat dishes and more.

For your last dinner, if you have not yet been, definitely try Ristorante Pizzeria L’Antico Approdo. It’s one of our favorites. It’s also nearby, casual, family-friendly, with indoor and outdoor seating, and a broad menu that give you a chance to try your favorite Marchigiano dish one last time.

Day 8:

Checkout isn’t until 11 o’clock and we sometimes have complimentary late check outs available, just ask! Have some breakfast and pack calmly. There’s time for a morning coffee (and/or Prosecco) from the hanging chairs and one last swim before you leave.

Reserve your perfect week here.

Contact me and I’ll create a custom itinerary for you.

A 14 day itinerary is coming soon!

Local dishes to try in the Marche

Cinghiale with Polenta
What to eat in the Marche — Cinghiale with Polenta

In the Marche we are lucky because we have the largest variety of traditional local foods in all of Italy. You could stay two weeks and try a different dish every day.

We have our beautiful geography to thank. The Sibillini mountains to our west provide truffles, sheep, cheeses, cattle, chestnuts, and boar. Countryside foothills abound with wheat, vegetables, olives, and fresh produce. Area farms raise pigs, chickens, ducks, and rabbits. And the Adriatic to our east supplies not only our area, but all Italy with an abundant variety of fresh fish and seafood.

Our location also reflects our food heritage. Being just over the mountains from Rome, and connected by the ancient Via Salaria, we have Roman influences. Greeks and North Africans landed on the coastline and settled, imparting some of their culinary customs. So there really is something for everyone, no matter what your food preference is.

15 of our favorite “Must-Try” Traditional Marchigiani foods

Vincisgrassi at Il Sigillio
Local dishes in the Marche — Vincisgrassi at Il Sigillo, Camporotondo

Vincisgrassi is a multi-layered lasagna that originated in Macerata. Everyone makes it a little differently, and some use vino cotto in the pasta dough. The meat and cheeses used can vary but often include veal, prosciutto, chicken livers and giblets. Historically it was made at special occasions but it’s often a menu item, and surprisingly light considering the many layers.

Ciauscolo, or ciabuscolo is a pork sausage made with highly ground meat and often white wine or vino cotto. It is lightly smoked and dried in a cool place for a couple of months. Eaten raw as an antipasto, it is often spread on bread. It’s also delicious as an ingredient in filled pasta or polenta.

Brodetto is a fish stew famous along the coast. It is thought to have been invented in Athens and spread throughout the Mediterranean by the Greeks. Each town makes their own version and asserts it as the best. I have 5 different recipes for it in one Marche cookbook. Every preparation calls for an assortment of fish, often as many as 13 types. Scorfano, or scorpion fish, is almost always included in a traditional Marchigiano Brodetto.

Olive Ascolane, fried olives
Typical food in the Marche
What to eat in Marche — Olive all’Ascolana at L’Antico Approdo

Olive all’Ascolana, or fried stuffed olives are ubiquitous at restaurants and as street food, and originated in the Ascoli Piceno province just south of Casa Pace e Gioia. Perfect as an appetizer, local Ascolane olives are pitted, stuffed with a meat mixture, breaded and fried. The filling can vary but typically includes a meat mixture with nutmeg. Vegetarian options exist and the Montelupone artichoke stuffed and fried olives are fabulous!

Cinghiale con le Pappardelle or wild boar with pappardelle, can be found in other Italian regions but what distinguishes a Marchigiano dish is wild fennel, which grows abundantly in our area and complements the flavor of the boar. The boar is marinated at least overnight, if not for days, prior to making the sauce.

Bistecca di Scottona Marchigiana, a grilled steak of a young, prized Marchigiana cow which has IGP status, a symbol of high quality. The Marchigiana is a powerful white cow with muscles that have an excellent proportion of fat to create a succulent marbled meat. Until the 1950s they were also used as working animals.

Coniglio in Porchetta, what to eat in the Marche — Coniglio in Porchetta at Il Santo Bevitore, Tolentino

Coniglio in Porchetta, or Rabbit with Wild Fennel is a local traditional dish for both the rabbit and the wild fennel, two Marchigiani trademarks. Preparations vary, and sometimes the rabbit is stuffed, but the ingredients always include pork, wild fennel, and garlic.

Porchetta Roasted pork, not to be confused with Coniglio in Porchetta, above. Is roasted pork usually served as street-food style sandwiches, is popular throughout Italy, but is distinguished in the Marche again by the presence of wild fennel. Historically, the Marchigiani prepared a porchetta for the festival celebrating the wheat threshing.

Cicoria, or chicory is on almost every menu in our region. Indeed, it grows wild in between our grapevines. These slightly bitter leafy greens are usually boiled, then tossed in a pan with olive oil, chili pepper, garlic, and salt. It’s a must-try, at least once.

Cappelletti in Brodo di Cappone,
What to eat in the marche — Cappelletti in Brodo di Cappone at L’Antico Approdo

Cappelletti in Brodo di Cappone is a homemade pasta stuffed with a mixture of cooked veal, chicken, pork, mortadella, and parmesan cheese, then folded to resemble a hat (cappelletti). They are served in a delicious capon broth. In the past, this was served only at Christmas but nowadays is available in the fall-spring seasons.

Agnello allo Scottadito is seasoned lamb roasted over a hot grill and served so hot it will “burn your fingers” (scottadito). It’s often included in a “mixed grill” dish. This is Matt’s all-time favorite.

Pecorino dei Monti Sibillini is one of our many fantastic local cheeses. This one in particular is in the Slow Food Presidium and is slightly aged. Cheeses are often featured on antipasti platters or as a dessert. You can also find it at weekly markets and the grocery store in Colmurano.

Chickpea soup, zuppa di ceci, what to eat in Marche — Chickpea Soup

Chickpea soup (zuppa di ceci) was often consumed by local farm families because chickpeas were cultivated locally and they could be stored for a year. It’s often featured on menus and is really delicious. Sometimes prosciutto is added but usually it’s a vegetarian dish.

Gnocchi with Duck Ragu is typically slow cooked in a sauce of red wine, tomatoes, and herbs until the duck meat falls from the bones. Fresh potato gnocchi are folded into the sauce. It’s especially popular around our nearby area, especially the Abbadia di Fiastra.

Carbonara al Tartufo, Carbonara with Truffles, what to eat in marche — Carbonara al Tartufo

Truffles with anything. The Marche is internationally underrated for our truffles but we have both white and black varieties, which makes our truffle season longer. If fresh truffles are available you will see them on menus (tartufo). My favorite is truffles shaved on top of carbonara.

Buon appetito!