And the Winning Restaurants Are…

Coniglio in Porchetta, Olive Ascolane, Vincisgrassi
Coniglio in Porchetta, Olive Ascolane, Vincisgrassi

At Casa Pace e Gioia, we are fortunate to be in a beautiful location equidistant from the beach and the mountains. And we’re also lucky because there are a lot of fantastic local restaurants that offer a variety of fresh local dishes inspired by the Adriatic, the Sibillini Mountains, and the valley farmland. We recommend 25 restaurants (and counting) in our Digital Welcome and Area Guide. 

To simplify your selection, Matt and I are awarding “prizes” to featured restaurants that really excel in a particular category. 

We had considered a category for “Excellent Value for the Money” but we’d have to add all of these to that list. None of these prize-winners are overpriced.

Best Family Friendly Restaurants

The play area at Norcineria La Centrale del Gusto

Most of the restaurants in the Marche, and all of them in our Digital Welcome and Area Guide are family friendly to some extent, but our featured winners have something that makes them stand out, especially for younger children. 

Norcineria La Centrale del Gusto near the Abbadia di Fiastra off SP78

This informal restaurant specializes in meat dishes, huge sandwiches, fresh pastas, and daily specials. They have a lot of outdoor seating in a large garden area with swings, a slide, and playground games for children. There is no table service. You order at the counter and when it’s ready you bring it to your table, but in our experience, this meant a very short wait for our excellent meal. 

Ristorante Pizzeria L’Antico Approdo in Ripe San Ginesio 

This family run restaurant is popular with families of all ages. It’s a large space with a casual and friendly vibe. They have a huge grill and pizza oven, and their extensive menu has something for everyone. Their homemade pastas are all delicious and the tagliata di pollo con rucola (sliced chicken on arugula) is a nice secondi. A courtyard provides outdoor dining, and they have takeaway. We eat here often. It’s a particularly good value. 

Terra Nostra in San Ginesio

While I recommend Terra Nostra to everyone, I especially make sure to tell our guests with children about it. The inspired menu features seasonal fresh pasta dishes and meat-centric secondi choices that are all prepared creatively. Their thin crust pizzas crunch when you bite into them, and in addition to their usual delicious pizza options, they also offer seasonal specials. Terra Nostra is located in the city park with a lovely view of the Sibillini Mountains, and a playground, which is one reason I recommend it to families. They have outdoor dining and offer takeaway. 

Agriturismo La Selva in the Natural Reserve of Abbadia di Fiastra, Urbisaglia

This is a great place to take kids. They have farm animals, and on our visit, we saw geese, peacocks, donkeys, a small pony, and several cats and dogs. A large outdoor seating area and a playground give the kids plenty of amusement. The staff is family-friendly and can make pretty much anything for children to eat. Their pastas are homemade and delicious, and they use a lot of their own ingredients in their dishes. Their secondi, based largely on meat, are expertly prepared. 

Best Date Night Restaurants

Fresh fish at Il Santo Bevitore

These winning restaurants would be equally good with groups of friends. Indeed I have been to all of them as such. But for a relaxing evening without TVs on the wall, these places are where we go. 

Il Santo Bevitore in the historic center of Tolentino

With a lovely ambiance, airy vaulted ceilings, thoughtful interior design, great music, and big spacious tables that are spread out, this restaurant is easy to recommend. Outdoor seating in the stone-walled courtyard is also available. But the food takes center stage of this atmospheric scene. Il Santo Bevitore is one of the rare restaurants that excels with both fresh seafood and meat. The homemade pasta starters are fabulous and rely on what’s fresh seasonally. The Australian Angus steak sizzles on the platter. This is a great place if you want to try the best of the Marche’s signature dishes with an elevated twist. Paolo and Nadia provide excellent service and wine suggestions.

Il Sigillo in the historic center of Camporotondo di Fiastrone

This intimate restaurant with stone walls and wood beams has a warm ambiance and a relaxed vibe. With two small dining rooms upstairs, and outdoor tables in the piazza, reservations are essential. The Cicconi family is welcoming and passionate about local, traditional, Marchigiani food and wines. All of their meats and cheeses come from local producers that they list on the menu. Pastas and Olive Ascolane are handmade in house. The Marchigiana steak is outstanding and big enough to share. Desserts are innovative, homemade, and worth it!

Locanda Le Logge in the historic center of Urbisaglia

The outdoor dining tables under the vaulted loggia are particularly suggestive but the inside dining rooms also have a warm inviting atmosphere with fresh flowers and crisp linens on the table. It’s a beautiful setting and the Tombolini family is very inviting. Chef Andrea proposes a set tasting menu, or you can choose from the menu which features traditional Marchigiani specialties prepared inventively using local ingredients. They accommodate vegetarians very well.  

Best Places for Live Music

Live music at Osteria San Nicola. Photo courtesy of Osteria San Nicola, Grazie!!! 🙂

Le Marche is not famous for our party scene, but we do have exceptional local talent. If you’re in the mood for live music, these two winners immediately come to mind. 

Osteria San Nicola in the historic center of Tolentino 

One of our local standby favorites, Osteria San Nicola often has live music, even this crazy Covid summer. Check out their Facebook page for the lineup. Their seasonal, fresh, 0 km menu changes often but the food is always great. Their pastas are made in house, and they make pizzas even at lunch. They can make almost everything without gluten for celiacs. Their secondi are a mixture of very local meats and fish. They also have a lot of vegetarian options. In a historic building, tastefully decorated and with outdoor seating, this is a great place to eat even if you’re not listening to live music. 

La Taverna in Loro Piceno

La Taverna is open Wednesdays-Sundays for dinner and often has live music, especially in the summer. Check out their Facebook page for their lineup. They have a varied menu, from typical local fresh pasta dishes to huge hamburgers and fries. My stuffed pasta was delicious. The service is attentive and friendly. The live music was excellent, and it was not too loud so we could still converse freely. It’s a casual place with a local feel to it. 

Best place for Sunday Family Lunch

Ravioli at Ristorante da Rosa

Many Italian families have a tradition to enjoy a leisurely family lunch out on Sundays. If you’d like to take your part, I suggest you reserve your table at one of these winners. 

Ristorante da Rosa in the Natural Reserve of Abbadia di Fiastra, Urbisaglia

Ristorante da Rosa is always a terrific restaurant but it really knows how to host a Sunday Family Lunch. One Sunday we were the table of two next a table of 14, and the service never faltered, and our meals were just as fantastic as they are on date night. On Sunday afternoons, da Rosa is filled with locals who flock to this traditional airy restaurant with stone walls, wood beams, and a lot of natural light. Outdoor seating is available on the large patio, and being in the park, it is quiet and immersed in nature. Their homemade ravioli dishes are notable and are often offered as a special with seasonally inspired sauces. The secondi feature local typical meat dishes.

Pippo e Gabriella in Sant’Angelo in Pontano

Pippo e Gabrielle is popular with local regulars, but the Domizi family warmly welcomes everyone as an old friend. They dress in bow ties, provide stellar service, and offer excellent suggestions. The space is large and light, filled with old art, posters, and awards. The vibe is quintessential Italian. It’s a casual yet serious restaurant with a huge grill that is the basis for most of the secondi. Their primi dishes are all made in house; their cannelloni di carne and crepes are delicious and unique. They make fabulous homemade Olive Asocolane. If we had an award for the best fried potatoes they would win that too. Save room for the homemade tiramisu! 

Best Seafood

Lobster at Il Ristorantino

We’re lucky in the Marche because the nearby Adriatic gives us bountiful fresh fish and we have talented chefs to prepare them a myriad of ways. 

Il Ristorantino in Tolentino

This small restaurant is popular with locals and fills up fast, so I advise reservations. In a light and tasteful ambiance, the service is friendly and welcoming. They brought out the still-squirming lobster that would be my dinner. The chef prepares dishes starring fresh seafood with flair and creativity. The fish may play the starring role, but the breads, vegetables, rices, and pastas that accompany are also top-notch. The homemade desserts are especially inspired. 

Ristorante Seta Cruda in Loro Piceno

This airy restaurant focuses on fresh, local seafood prepared creatively. Their pizzas are also very popular. Do not come here looking for meat. We usually get a tasting portion of each seafood antipasti. They are served (beautifully) as courses, and we never have room to order more food at the end. The owner Elia, and the staff know a lot about the local wines and will perfectly pair a local wine with your meal. They have a large variety of Verdicchio wines. Sometimes they have live music, and they can open the walls up when the weather is nice.

Il Santo Bevitore in the historic center of Tolentino

Their fresh seafood dishes warrant including them in two categories. (See also Best Date Night.) They offer a tasting menu of seafood with an antipasto, first course, second course, and a side and I highly recommend it. But they also offer fish-based courses off the menu. Their seafood carbonara is delightful and they are very creative in pairing fresh fish and pasta for innovative first courses. I usually prefer meat, but I’ve eaten seafood I never thought I would try here and loved it all. You really can’t go wrong. 

Best Outdoor Dining

A view from Duilia

Outdoor dining is even more in demand this summer and I can’t think of a restaurant that does not have it. But these three winners are in quiet and peaceful locations, with exceptional views that add to the experience. 

Ristorante Duilia in the historic center of Sant’Angelo in Pontano 

This jewel of a restaurant has fantastic views of the valley and the village from their outdoor tables, so reserve in advance to enjoy the sunset! Signora Caporaletti started her restaurant in 1968 and at 90 years old, still makes pasta by hand. Her son Roberto now runs the restaurant which is noted for its traditional local cuisine, especially lamb. Their stuffed olives are homemade and you can taste the difference! The service is friendly and attentive, and the food is fantastic. In fact, if it was raining, I would eat indoors, but for a fabulous view, Duilia can’t be beat! 

Ristorante da Rosa in the Natural Reserve of Abbadia di Fiastra

Ristorante da Rosa is also a best Sunday Family Lunch winner, but their outside dining deserves special merit. It’s a large, tiled patio space with umbrellas to shade the tables, which are not tippy. The restaurant is in the large peaceful Natural Reserve, so traffic does not detract from the tranquility. One side of the patio faces a small garden area. It’s a lovely environment and the food and service never disappoint! 

Terra Nostra in San Ginesio

Terra Nostra is located in a large city park with views of the Sibillini Mountains, which is one reason it also won a Best Family Friendly award. It’s a gorgeous backdrop at any time, but especially at sunset. They have several outdoor tables spread throughout a large area. The adjacent street is not busy so it’s quiet. Their food is always delicious, whether it’s empanadas, a fresh pasta starter, a local meat second, or a seasonal pizza. The music adds to the atmosphere and the service is always fantastic. 

Best for Vegetarians

Fresh vegetables at Osteria San Nicola. Photo courtesy of Osteria San Nicola, Grazie!!! 🙂

While the Marche is famous for fresh fish, pork, rabbit, wild boar, and lamb, we also have fabulous local vegetables. When my pescatarian daughter came with me, I thought I’d be eating seafood all week but we found these restaurants had fantastic options for vegetarians. 

Osteria San Nicola in the historic center of Tolentino

In addition to being one of the Best Places for Live Music, Osteria San Nicola is also a great place to go for vegetarians (and Celiacs, and people who eat fish and meat)! I brought my daughter here for lunch and Letizia was very accommodating. They always have a variety of vegetarian antipasti and first course options on the menu, but they also had a soup special that used vegetable stock rather than a meat soup base. 

Locanda Le Logge in Urbisaglia

I brought my daughter here for dinner and when we mentioned she was a pescatarian to our waitress, she ran into the kitchen to see what was available. She came back with an abundance of options that Chef Andrea could create either from scratch, or by omitting meat from dishes already on the menu. I was impressed with the variety they were able to offer, especially without advance notice. My daughter said it was delicious, and I was happy that I could enjoy my rabbit. 

Il Sigillo in the historic center of Camporotondo di Fiastrone 

In addition to winning in the “Best Date Night” category, Il Sigillo is a good choice for vegetarians. They always have a first dish of pasta with cheese and /or truffles, and they also offer a seasonal 4-course tasting menu for vegetarians complete with a salad, pasta starter, a second course, and a dessert. 

Best Pizza

One of my many favorite pizzas from Best Of

Pizzeria Best Of  just off SP78 in Colmurano 

We always get take away here on the first night we arrive and are jet-lagged. They are very close to Casa Pace e Gioia so the pizza stays hot and delicious. If you prefer to eat there, they offer table service with indoor and outdoor seating. Their dough rises for days, and they offer a lot of innovative topping combinations using local, quality ingredients. Check out their seasonal specialty pizzas. The service is super friendly and it’s an informal, local place. If you want to take out, you can order by phone or wait there while they make it.  

Restaurants Worth the Drive 

Osteria Scherzi a Parte

Osteria Scherzi a Parte just outside of Sarnano 

Osteria Scherzi a Parte is a 35-minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia just outside of Sarnano in the Sibillini Mountains. Gabriele is the consummate host and his wife Tiziana reigns supreme in the kitchen. From their particularly good antipasto misto to the delicious homemade desserts, everything is local cuisine made with care and quality ingredients. The ambiance is friendly and relaxed, with very good background music. They are open for lunch and dinner daily except Wednesdays. It’s worth driving here expressly to have dinner, and to plan a day trip to the Sibillini or the surrounding areas to lunch here. 

La Taverna dell’Artista in Montelupone, a Borghi Più Belli d’Italia

Montelupone is famous for the artichokes that grow here and are listed in the Slow Food Presidium. It’s about a 40-minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia and the town is indeed beautiful and worth a visit. La Taverna dell’Artista has an entire menu that features artichokes when they are fresh in season. Try the artichoke-stuffed Olive Ascolane! But even out of artichoke season, La Taverna has an extensive menu of typical local specialties, pizzas, and risotto dishes. They use very traditional local ingredients and add a creative spin to them like prosciutto-wrapped risotto. In an 18th century palazzo, the ambiance is historic, and the outside garden dining area is very relaxing. 

Picciolo di Rame in Caldarola

In the walled medieval hamlet of Vestignano, Il Picciolo di Rame is only a 30- minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia, but it’s definitely worth reserving a table! Down the stairs, in a 16th century former olive oil mill, in a 13th century castle, stone walls and candlelight provide a memorable ambiance for 25 diners. Dining here is more than a meal. Twelve tasting-sized portions are offered, of which five are fixed and the others change seasonally. Using local high-quality ingredients to prepare historic local recipes, this is a gastronomic feast and a cultural delight.

If you have a recommendation that deserves to be added please let me know, we enjoy trying new places but keep coming back to these! 

Buon appetito! 

The Best Outdoor Activities in the Marche

View of Colmurano from Casa Pace e Gioia
View of Colmurano from Casa Pace e Gioia. Photo by Heather von Bargen

Our holiday home, Casa Pace e Gioia, is the perfect place to nurse your Covid hangover. Nestled on a hilltop in the Italian Marche countryside, our private sanctuary is the ideal place to enjoy fresh air, plentiful sunshine, and amazing views. 

Our area also boasts an abundance of outdoor activities that make the most of our mountains, sea, and midland hills. And you can partake in them safely while social distancing. Here are some ideas to consider.

Cycling in the Marche
Photo courtesy of Turismo Marche

Land

Le Marche’s reputation as a cycling destination is well deserved. But you don’t need to be an expert to pedal up our hills. E-bike rentals make the ascent easier. Mountain and racing bike rentals are also readily available, and we have a lot of information on local routes if you want to set out on your own. Or meet the locals with a guide who can steer you to insider places. Organized cycle tours are conducted in accordance with Covid protocols. 

If you prefer walking, the nearby Abbadia di Fiastra has several well-maintained paths that traverse a variety of environments and are kid friendly. Just up the road from our house, Colmurano has a walking and biking path along the main road and is a popular place for an evening stroll. 

Just a half-hour away, in Sarnano, the 6 kilometer Path of the Lost Waterfalls connects 3 waterfalls (two of which were just uncovered in 2020) not far from the historic center and is suitable for children. Also 30 minutes away, the Valle dei Grilli in San Severino Marche, is a mostly flat walking path immersed in nature to the Caves of Sant Eustachio, which houses an abandoned church carved into the rock. 

Trekking Monte Sibilla. Things to do outside in the Marche
Photo courtesy of Turismo Marche

Themed guided walks throughout the region are offered with social distancing. These inexpensive excursions are a great way to let locals introduce you to our area’s treasures and breathtaking views. Think: a full moon night hike in the Sibillini; photo walks with other photography enthusiasts; a hike to the top of Monte Conero with a celebratory aperitivi; sunset hikes to the balcony of the Sibillini where you enjoy local wines and food; organized star gazing and meteor watching with an astronomer; wine tasting treks; and even “rivering,” which is trekking in a river in diving suits. 

Hikers have a lifetime of nearby options. The Sibillini Mountains are only a half-hour away from Casa Pace e Gioia and have a stunning amount of marked hiking trails that crisscross diverse environments. You are sure to find one that’s the perfect length and difficulty level. One popular scenic trail starts at Lake Fiastra and then goes to the Red Blades, Le Marche’s version of the Grand Canyon. Another hike leads to a hidden hermitage in the mountains. At least 72 other trails reveal the beautiful treasures of the Sibillini. We have a book of Sibillini hikes with maps at the house. 

If you’d like to explore our area on horseback, several nearby riding clubs offer guided trail rides for all ages. Maneggio Alma is the closest at the Abbadia di Fiastra, but there are several near the water in Civitanova Marche, and some towards the mountains. 

 Golfers can play Conero Golf Club’s 18-hole, par 71 championship course, or their 5-hole, par 17 executive course. Club rentals are available, so you don’t have to pack yours. The highly rated course is conveniently located just off the freeway towards Ancona and has wonderful views of the surrounding countryside. 

Water

Conero beach. Outdoor activities in the Marche
Photo courtesy of Turismo Marche

Hit the beach while social distanced! Typically in the summer, and especially on weekends, Italian beaches are crowded, but this year you’ll get more room with social-distancing measures in place. The Adriatic Beaches are set to open May 1 for an extended season that stretches until Oct. 3. And don’t worry, restaurants will still serve local fresh seafood and chilled white wines outdoors. 

Take to the water and rent a boat! Small inflatables don’t require a nautical license and give you the chance to explore coastal areas that can’t be reached by land. 

Let someone else be the captain and take an excursion on a sail or motorboat. You can charter a private tour or join an already-organized socially distanced outing. Food, drinks, and music will make your day along the Conero coast unforgettable. 

Portonovo – Scoglio della Vela

Prefer something slower paced? Rent kayaks and stand-up paddle boards along the coast and at Lake Fiastra and Lake Caccamo. 

Air

Admire our area’s breathtaking views from the sky. Try hang gliding or paragliding! You don’t need to have experience; an instructor can join you. We see paragliders fly near Casa Pace e Gioia frequently. Get a bird’s eye view. 

Go high in the sky in a memorable hot air balloon ride. The pilot will be masked, and the views will be incredible. As always, I’m happy to make suggestions and arrangements for our guests.

Discover Italy’s most Beautiful Villages near Casa Pace e Gioia

Borghi Piu Belli Logo

If you see a sign in Italy that says: “I Borghi più belli d’Italia” follow it. It will bring you to one of the 313 villages that have earned the designation as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The Borghi più belli Association was formed in 2001 to protect, preserve, and promote smaller villages that are typically overlooked by travelers. A Borgo più belli is selected for its aesthetic beauty and for the welcome and resources that the town offers to visitors. 

Not surprisingly, the Marche has more Borghi più belli than any other region, with 28. And our holiday rental home, Casa Pace e Gioia, is in the enviable position of being within an hour’s drive of 12 of these beautiful villages!

Most of them are medieval walled towns perched on hilltops with breathtaking views. All of them have historical churches and buildings with notable artworks and architecture that reflect a long past. And each village has its own unique traditions, culture, and craftsmanship. 

I describe each borgo below, organized by location to help you plan your visit.
(If the linked websites are in Italian only, use Chrome to translate it.) 

Treia. Photo courtesy of Comune di Treia
Treia. Photo courtesy of Comune di Treia

Treia is a thirty-minute drive north of Casa Pace e Gioia. Twenty-five centuries ago, it was called Trea and was located where the Santuario del Santissimo Crocifisso is today, outside of town in the countryside hills. This monumental church was built with the ruins of the old town and is famous for its 15th century wooden Crucifix. As the Roman Empire was falling, the inhabitants fled up the hill to where the town is now. 

The Museo Civico Archeologico, in the Church di San Francesco, displays artifacts from the Neolithic era and numerous finds from the original Picene settlement. Treia’s municipal theater is a gem, with a beautiful frescoed ceiling and box seats. Ask the tourist office for a guide to open it for you.  

The view from the horseshoe shaped Piazza della Repubblica is stupendous and spans the Conero Mountain to the Sibillini Mountains. Treia hosts many fairs and food festivals and is especially famous for playing the ancient Roman sport pallone al bracciale

Cingoli. Photo courtesy of Cingoli Tourism
Cingoli. Photo courtesy of Cingoli Tourism

Cingoli is a twenty-minute drive northwest of Treia, or 55 minutes from Casa Pace e Gioia. The panoramic views from hilltop Cingoli are among the best in the region and give it the nickname “The Balcony of the Marche.” The most famous monument in Cingoli, the Collegiate Church of Sant’Esuperanzio, is outside the city walls. It was built in the late 12th century to accommodate the tomb of Esuperantius, the patron saint of Cingoli. The magnificent Romanesque portal was carved in 1295 and the interior walls are covered with frescoes. 

Inside the city walls, Cingoli’s center is calm, thanks to traffic restrictions. With many churches, Renaissance palaces, fountains, piazze, parks, and a medieval district, there’s something for everyone here. City Hall, on the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, houses the Museo Civico Archeologico, which exhibits finds from the Paleolithic to Roman eras. In the hall of the coat of arms an impressive Lorenzo Lotto painting, the Madonna del Rosario, is displayed. The Baroque Chiesa di San Domenico has several notable artworks, one of which is another Lorenzo Lotto painting, Madonna of the Rosary and Saints.  

Montecassiano. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism
Montecassiano. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism

Montecassiano is a hidden gem of a well preserved medieval village not found in many guidebooks. It is a 35-minute drive northeast from Casa Pace e Gioia, 15 minutes northeast of Treia, and 15 minutes west of Montelupone, the next Borghi più Belli

Concentric streets joined by alleys and stairs spiral their way to Montecassiano’s central piazza which is flanked by the main attractions of the town. The Palazzo dei Priori is now the City Hall and was rebuilt in the 15th century in Gothic style. The nearby Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, built in 1234 on a pre-existing temple and later modified, boasts an exquisite glazed terracotta altarpiece.  

The deconsecrated church of San Marco is elegant with a light interior and numerous crystal chandeliers. It hosts events and conferences and is opened upon request to the tourist office. The former Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista is now a museum of sacred art and also opened upon request at the tourist office. 

Montelupone. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism
Montelupone. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism

Montelupone is a welcoming town with a medieval historic center on a hilltop surrounded by intact city walls and towers, with a park at one end from which the views of the countryside are amazing. Montelupone is famous for the artichokes they grow and they host a festival featuring artichokes every May. 

Many important sights are located near the Piazza del Comune. The 14th century Palazzo del Podestà houses the Civic Art Gallery, with artworks ranging from 16th century frescoes and paintings to works from the 1900s. In addition, you can see archeological finds from the Roman and ancient Picene settlements in the area. 

The Palazzo Comunale (city hall) also faces the square and houses the splendid Teatro degli Angeli, a small theater with a gorgeously frescoed ceiling. In the basement, the Museum of Ancient Arts and Crafts displays a collection of historical agricultural and artisanal tools, old school desks, cinema projectors, clothing, and in short, a wide variety of interesting objects. Ask the tourist office for a guided visit to both of these sights as they are not open regular hours. 

If you’re interested in photography, arrange a visit to the Historical Photographic Museum, a collection of 800 photographs and more than 700 old cameras in excellent condition and still fully functional. 

Just four kilometers north of Montelupone is the fascinating ancient Abbey of San Firmano, built in 980, and reconstructed in 1256. The portal is from the original building and has a Byzantine lunette and five figures carved into the back of a Roman statue, visible inside. The presbytery is elevated 17 steps, probably to avoid flooding by the Potenza river. The remains of Saint Firmano are in the crypt, supported by an arch, and according to tradition, passing under it 9 times relieves bone pain. In addition to several important artworks, the terracotta floors are unique. If the door is locked, ask at the bar. They have a key and can let you in. 

Montecosaro. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism
Montecosaro. Photo courtesy of Marche Tourism

Montecosaro is a 40-minute drive northeast from Casa Pace e Gioia, not far from Civitanova Marche, and about 10 minutes from Montelupone. A pleasant and clean hilltop walled town, it has one remaining city gate and a park with 360-degree views of the Adriatic, Monte Conero, the Sibillini mountains and the countryside. 

Outside the city walls, the octagonal church of San Rocco boasts a fresco by Simone de Magistris. Within the walls, the Collegiate church of San Lorenzo has a gorgeous interior with 15th century frescoes and a wooden Crucifix from the 13th century. The church of Sant’Agostino is known for its 18th century organ. 

The Museo Cinema a Pennello is a unique private museum of sketches, drawings, and painted movie posters and other cinema memorabilia. It is highly recommended and if you reserve in advance, Paolo Marinozzi, the collector can give you a guided tour with his insights. 

Down the hill towards SS77, in Montecosaro Scalo is the Basilica di Santa Maria a Pié di Chienti, a national monument and a masterpiece of Romanesque art and architecture. The first written mention of it dates from 936. The current church was built in 1125 with some later additions and changes. Surrounded by green parkland, the brick structure looks rather severe from the front but when you walk around to see the graceful apses behind, it is stunning.  

The interior is very unique and harmonious. Two levels high, with three arched naves, a 15th century wooden Crucifix is visible upon entering. A high presbytery on the second floor was created in the 15thcentury after a wall collapsed and is embellished with frescoes. The church is an active parish and holds services daily. 

Esantoglia. Photo courtesy of @gaetanocessati via I Borghi più Belli
Esantoglia. Photo courtesy of @gaetanocessati via I Borghi più Belli

Esanatoglia is just west of Fabriano, tucked up in the mountains and surrounded by nature near the Umbrian border. This small medieval town is a 55-minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main road that goes through the town, is lined with 7 bell towers. As you wander the town, be on the lookout for medieval houses with three doors. One was for daily use, one for the entrance of bridal couples, and one for the coffin to exit. 

The parish church of Santa Anatolia is Esanatoglia’s oldest, first recorded in 1180, has a 13th century portal, and is possibly built on a pagan temple. The church of Santa Maria Maddalena displays a painting from 1565 by the de Magistris brothers and a painted wooden choir. The church of San Martino was built in the 13-14th century. 

The source of the Esino river is just west of town along Strada Sorgenti Fiume Esino, and is the site of a picnic area and a walking path. Numerous trekking and biking paths in the area are well maintained and marked. The hermitage of San Contaldo is on Monte Corsegno and is a recommended hike. 

San Ginesio's Piazza Gentili. Photo courtesy of Heather von Bargen
San Ginesio’s Piazza Gentili. Photo courtesy of Heather von Bargen

San Ginesio’s twin towers are visible from Casa Pace e Gioia. Known as the Balcony of the Sibillini, San Ginesio has spectacular views of the Sibillini mountains and the countryside from three city parks. Earthquakes in 2016 hit San Ginesio hard. Many buildings remain closed to the public and are braced with metal supports, but the town is still lovely and merits a visit. 

Just past Porta Picena, the main entrance to the town is the Ospedale dei Pellegrini, a 13th century building that hosted pilgrims who traveled on foot to and from Rome and Loreto. It is temporarily closed but you can admire the lovely portico and loggia. 

The town’s main piazza is named for Alberico Gentili, who was born in San Ginesio, taught at Oxford University, and is considered the founder of international law. The unique Collegiate Church overlooks the piazza and is an emblem of the city. The church is Romanesque with a Gothic facade with a travertine arched portal and terracotta adornments above. It is currently closed for repairs. On the other side of the piazza the Bar Centrale has delicious gelato. 

Four parks along the perimeter provide shade trees, play areas, and fantastic views. In the Parco di Colle Ascarano, the restaurant Terra Nostra has terrific crispy thin pizzas and savory pasta dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating, it’s an excellent place to enjoy the sunset.

Sarnano. Photo courtesy of Heather von Bargen
Sarnano. Photo courtesy of Heather von Bargen

Sarnano is a 30-minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia, and is an ideal starting point to explore the Sibillini mountains. The walled historic center is a labyrinth of streets that wend their way up to the Piazza Alta, from which the views are stupendous. You can download a free audio walking tour of the historic center on the izi.travel app. (In Italian only but if you know some it’s very clear and there are pictures.) 

The 13th century Chiesa di Santa Maria di Piazza Alta is the most important church in Sarnano. The Gothic entrance portal is elaborately carved with a triple cornice and complements the brick building. The single nave interior features several 15th century frescoes. 

The Pinacoteca on Via Leopardi displays an impressive selection of artworks from the 14th-17thcenturies. The jewel of the collection is a panel painting by Vittore Crivelli, Madonna Adoring the Child with Musician Angels. Additionally, the Pinacoteca has preserved important artworks from the Chiesa di Santa Maria di Piazza Alta. 

Tucked away, not far from the municipal pool and sports park on Via del Colle, the delightful Cascata dell’Antico Mulino (waterfall of the ancient mill) is reached by walking a marked path 10 minutes, and is the first of three waterfalls on a route

I highly recommend lunch or dinner at Osteria Scherzi a Parte five minutes down SP120. 

Servigliano. Photo courtesy of Comune di Servigliano
Servigliano. Photo courtesy of Comune di Servigliano

Servigliano, 35 minutes southeast of Casa Pace e Gioia, has a long history, but the old city began to collapse in 1758 when the hill it was built on became infiltrated with water. In 1771 Pope Clement XIV ordered a new city to be built 4 kilometers away on a plain near the 12th century Church of Santa Maria del Piano. The current historical center was designed in a contemporary quadrilateral shape with straight streets of brick buildings and is enclosed by three gates. 

The Collegiate Church of San Marco is on Piazza Roma, as is City Hall, a two-story building with 7 arches. The nearby restaurant Pane e Vino is highly recommended. Shops and bars scattered around the clean historic center make a pleasant stroll without steep hills. 

In 1915, a prison camp was built in Servigliano to guard Austro-Hungarian soldiers. During World War Two it imprisoned Allied soldiers and served as an internment camp for Jews. In 1943, about 2000 Allied soldiers escaped and many were sheltered by area families. After the Italian armistice in the fall of 1943, the Germans took over and at least 61 Jews were imprisoned here. During a bombing attack, 30 Jews managed to escape but the rest were sent to Auschwitz. Only 3 survived. After the war, the camp became a refugee center until 1955. 

You can see traces of the wall through which the Allies escaped, and barbed wire and glass shards on top of the wall at the Peace Park. The Casa della Memoria is in the old railway building (from which the prisoners were transported) and is a memorial museum with objects, photographs, and documents. To request a visit and tour, available also in English, arrange at least one day prior.  

Torre di Palme. Photo courtesy of Città di Fermo
Torre di Palme. Photo courtesy of Città di Fermo

Torre di Palme is a medieval hamlet perched on a hill on the Adriatic coast south of Porto San Giorgio. It is a 55-minute drive from Casa Pace e Gioia. The village is well kept with harmonious brick buildings, cobbled streets, and fantastic coastal views. 

At Piazzale della Rocca, the access point of the town, you’ll find the Archeological Museum, which displays finds from three of ten recently excavated funeral tombs nearby. The oldest dates to the Bronze Age (9th-7th centuries BC.), the others date to the 6th century BC and shed some light on how the Picene people lived. 

The 10th century Church of St. John the Baptist is the oldest in the village. A small structure built in stone blocks, it has been recently restored. Just down the road is the Church of Sant’Agostino, where the polyptych by Vittore Crivelli is a stunning highlight. Stolen in 1972, it was found a month later (missing 4 panels in the predella) and subsequently restored. A 16th century painting of the Madonna by Vincenzo Pagani hangs on the left wall. 

Further down the road, the 12th century Church of St. Mary by the Sea has fantastic Byzantine frescoes and a 14th century bell tower. The end of the road is the Piazza Lattanzi, with its breathtaking views. Numerous bars and restaurants in the area offer panoramic dining options. 

A well maintained and marked walking path from the parking area off Via Fonte di Mosè leads to the Bosco del Cugnolo, a protected woodland area with views of the sea and Torre di Palme. Continuing on the path, in addition to the flora and fauna, you can see an ancient church, a waterfall, and the legendary Lover’s Cave. 

Moresco. Photo courtesy of Moresco Turismo
Moresco. Photo courtesy of Moresco Turismo

Moresco, 15 minutes inland from Torre di Palme and an hour’s drive from Casa Pace e Gioia, is a medieval mystery. The name Moresco, which appears for the first time in 1083, could derive from a variety of references, none of which are definitive. The imposing castle on top of the hill has no documents regarding its origin. It is mentioned in 1248 and was probably built in the 10th or 11thcentury. What we do know is that this small fortress-village is a jewel to visit. 

The emblematic 12th century seven-sided tower is unique in all of Italy. The views from the top are fabulous (on a clear day you can see Albania) and the tower also hosts art exhibitions. An imposing 13thcentury clock tower stands guard over the village entrance and is also used for exhibits. The town hall displays a large altarpiece by Vincenzo Pagani. The ex-church of Santa Sofia is now a small theater with about 50 seats. To avoid disappointment in viewing sites, contact the tourist office in advance to ensure opening times or to set up an inexpensive guided tour. 

Outside the city walls, just off the main road is the tiny but beautiful Church of Madonna della Salute, said to be 8th century. Leaving Moresco on Via Santa Maria dell’Olmo brings you to a 15thcentury church of the same name, so-called because it is near an Elm tree. The interior features a notable altarpiece by Vincenzo Pagani. A highly regarded winery, Castrum Morisci is just down the road from the church.

Montefiore dell'Aso  Photo courtesy of Comune di Montefiore dell'Aso
Montefiore dell’Aso Photo courtesy of Comune di Montefiore dell’Aso

Montefiore dell’Aso is a 15-minute drive south from Moresco and an hour from Casa Pace e Gioia. Six towers from the 15th and 16th centuries dominate the skyline of this medieval village on a hill. The historical center is compact and reached by three gates.

The former convent of San Francesco, with its cloisters and history, is the evocative setting for the Polo Museale di San Francesco, where the Carlo Crivelli room displays the surviving panels of his large vibrant polyptych that was originally an altarpiece. The famous artist Adolfo De Carolis was born in Montefiore dell’Aso and the Adolfo De Carolis room exhibits hundreds of his drawings, sketches, and woodcuts. Sala Basili is dedicated to stage sets, photos, and cinema memorabilia from local set designer Giancarlo Basili. In a cloister, the Museum of Peasant Civilization has a collection of donated objects and tools used in the past by local families. Last but not least, the Domenico Cantatore collection has 114 aquatints, etchings, and lithographs that the artist donated to Montefiore dell’Aso. 

The facade of the church of Saint Lucia is partially covered by another building but the interior gleams with wood and marble accents. The church of San Francesco d’Assisi was built in the thirteenth century but the interior was renovated in Baroque style. Upstairs, the apse is adorned with exceptional 14th century frescoes. The highly recommended Clock Museum presents a collection of time pieces from Ancient Rome to the present and is open upon request.  

From Belvedere De Carolis, the view spans the Sibillini to the sea. A well-equipped park at the western end of the town has a restaurant, walking paths, shade trees, and games for children. 

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